This should work for both PVC and fiberglass
cores; The illustrations show fiberglass core.
(there are quite a few images so it may take a while to
load.)
Special thanks to Scion d'Ur for this incredible contribution in developing these pages,
instructions, and splendid graphics. While this design is not the only one
allowed or in use, it is a recognized standard highly recommended for safety and
longevity.
Core:
Pair fiberglass rods together and duct tape
together.
Secure tip of core so it doesn't poke through the
padding.
Padding:
*Note about contact cement: Apply to surfaces to join
lightly and allow cement to dry to a "tacky" texture before joining
surfaces.
Glue two 1-inch wide strips of closed cell foam
together (just one strip would work as well, depending on the thickness of
the core) and to the sides of the core as shown with contact cement.
Glue a 2-inch wide strip of closed cell foam that
covers over both sides of the blade.
Repeat last step until the blade is covered with
three layers of closed cell foam on each side.
Grip:
Place a popsicle stick on either side of the grip
with the bottom cut flat. Leave about a penny's diameter of the popsicle
stick to reach over the bottom to extend the handle length a little if
necessary.
Place 40-50 pennies between popsicle sticks and on
bottom of handle for a counterweight. The balance point of the length should
be 2-4 inches above the thumb when holding the sword.
Secure counterweight and sticks tightly with duct
tape.
Cover counterweight with a thick 2-inch wide block
of open cell foam and a 2-inch wide strip of closed cell foam and secure
tightly with duct tape as well as the bottom of the blade padding as shown.
Remember, the pommel cannot pass through a 2 1/2 i nch diameter hole to be
considered safe.
Cover:
In a pinch, this part can be bypassed with a sock.
Take a piece of cloth 4-6 inches longer and 3 times
as wide as the blade and fold in half.
Sew along top and side of cloth, cut off excess
leaving a 1/2 to 1-inch hem and turn inside out. (for best fit, wrap cloth
around blade and pin cloth along sewing lines)
Cover blade with cloth and secure bottom of cloth
with duct tape.
Cross guard:
There are many ways to make a hand guard from the rapier's
bell guard to the katana's tsuba. It should be foam and safe. This part
illustrates a basic cross guard.
Place a 1 1/2-inch wide, 6 to 9-inch long strip of closed cell foam above
the grip with a block of open cell foam between the overhanging strips.