Latest posts of: Alric

Quote from: Scheiny the Space Oracle

allow me to demonstrate with pictures what Rafiq suggests.

...

make a tunic. the popular choice is the four gore Bocksten tunic or you can use only two gores. or you can fake it with a bell tunic [at the waist flare an A-line down to your knee-length hem].
put on your tunic. ...

now take your leaf-shaped top and put it on over your tunic:

I've seen a few people talk about it before, but I'm not sure what it's best used for, and why it's supposed to be so good. Could someone in the know help me catch up?

Thanks!

I'll be building more javelins at the beginning of next month. Every time I make them, they sell out like wildfire, and there are people left waiting awkwardly for the next batch. I'd like to make sure I make enough this time!

So - who wants some?

I build them like this: http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=26074.0

The cores are 3/8" solid fiberglass, the hafts are padded with progressive layers of 4lb and 2lb and covered in fabric. The total length is just over 48", and the total weight around 11oz.

Here's a photo of the last batch:

They'll be $35 /ea. I can ship one for $10, plus $4 for each extra. I can also deliver them to Ragnarok, if you hate paying shipping and are willing to wait.

I'm not taking pre-orders yet, just gauging interest (but if you put in dibs now, I'll be sure you get one when they're ready in April).

I've been slowly changing Alric's backstory over the past year, and I've come to realize that my persona has changed so much that my sword is no longer appropriate for the character I wish to portray. With mixed emotions, I think it's time to offer it up here and see if it can find a better home with someone else.

Here's a photograph of the sword:

It's a Hanwei 'Tinker' Norman, and the style dates to around the 11th century. Hanwei's 'Tinker' line of swords were developed in consultation with Michael 'Tinker' Pearce, and unlike most cheaper swords, are designed to balance, handle, and cut like real swords. The blade is hard yet flexible, takes and holds a sharp edge, and most importantly has the 'apple seed' cross section of a properly constructed cutting blade. That is, this is made to be a sword, not a decoration. It's been a real pleasure to own.

The sword has been heavily customized. Here's what it looked like originally:

Note the boring black chrome tanned leather on the hilt. Also note the cheap, poorly constructed fiberglass scabbard that came with it.

I completely replaced the handle wrap with a more historical grip.

I carved a new scabbard from poplar that fits the blade perfectly, wrapped it in linen for strength, and leather for looks. I did a lot of research into 11th century English scabbards before I started this project, and did my best to get the details right.

And I gave it a belt with fittings cast by Armour and Castings, based on originals from 10th century York, England.

Here's a writeup of the full customization process, with lots of progress pictures, if you'd like to see everything I did to improve this sword:
http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=22306.0

Here are some specs for the sword:

Overall Length: 36 1/4"
Blade Length: 30 3/4"
Handle Length: 5"
Weight: 2lb 8oz
Blade Steel: 5160 Steel

The original sword has a MSRP of $405, but that's silly because you can get it for $243 from Kult of Athena (plus shipping). The belt fittings (buckle and strap end) are $15 + shipping from www.armourandcastings.com .

I've never cut anything with the sword (though I imagine it would cut beautifully!), so the blade is in pristine condition minus a few small scratches, and the edge is sharp.

I'm not sure what to ask for this sword. It has had a lot of time and care put into it, but I did that for my own enjoyment and education. I would like to think that my customization has added something to the starting value of $243+15, but I have no idea how much. I'll listen to any offers that you feel are reasonable (PM me).

I haven't used spray adhesive in years, but I need a glue to attach fabric to foam and DAP isn't cutting it. I need a bond that's permanent, where the foam will tear before the fabric comes off. Does anyone have any recommendations?

My memory tells me that 3M Super 77 wouldn't be strong enough to hold the fabric onto the foam? Do I want Super 74, or 90? Some other brand or product?

Thanks!

I just finished a batch of blue swords. It's a mix of 1/2" solid round fiberglass and .524 kitespar; some with plain handles, and lots of Plastidip (including a few new designs).

The construction is my usual build: 4lb routed microcell over a biscuited core, wrapped with 1" of 2lb microcell for the striking surface. Stab tips from 1" of ensolite (ie, marine foam/yoga mat) that has been stabilized with strapping tape (like this). All have been counterbalanced until they felt alive, like they want to be swung. Oblong handles, and a sturdy polyester blend cover.

Everything has a stab tip.

Everything has a first weapon check guarantee to pass as blue (contact me if it fails, and I'll offer you a refund). They should also pass as green, but be aware that some chapters have different ideas of what a safe stab tip should feel like. I personally don't have any trouble getting these to pass as green at any of the events I attend.

* * *

First up, the plain swords!

SOLID 1/2" ROUND FIBERGLASS:

Overall length: 33"
Weight: about 17oz

Price: $30
Number available: 4

- - -

KITESPAR:

These are built on Goodwinds .524 kitespar.

Overall length: 33"
Weight: about 14oz

Price: $40
Number available: 3

- - -

Langseax (long seax) / Orc Choppa

This is basically a Viking machete. They're single sided and balanced so they hit really hard (safely, of course, but no one will shrug off a hit from one of these). I like to carry one when I'm fighting red, or when I want to get up in people's faces and hit them really hard. They can also stab.

While this is a Viking weapon, it's also a perfect orc choppa.

Core: 1/2" solid square fiberglass
Overall length: 27"
Weight: just over 12oz

Price: $30 ($35 for the one on the left with the plastidipped pommel)

Number available: 4

* * *

Plastidipped swords

Late medieval longsword

This sword is loosely based on several 15th century longswords, and was built for the stick jock who likes to look good without throwing off his game. The handle is a little longer than the other swords, and the tapered pommel makes it easy to switch between different styles of grip. The kitespar core makes the sword very nimble, and it's balanced to stab as easily as it strikes. The crossguard, while loosely based on historical examples, has a fantasy feel that can fit with many different characters.

I made a lot of these last week, but they were really popular and all but 1 sold at Winter War.

Core: .524 kitespar
Overall length: 34"
Weight: about 15oz

Price: $55
Number available: 1

- - -

Late Roman / early Germanic Spatha

These swords are based on the style of sword used around the end of the Roman empire, and found in many graves across France and early Anglo-Saxon England, circa fifth-sixth century. The pommels and crossguards are bronze.

Core: 1/2" solid round fiberglass
Overall length: 33"
Weight: about 17oz

Price: $45
Number available: 3

- - -

Roman gladius

The classic Roman short sword, built to historical dimensions.

Core: 1/2" solid round fiberglass
Overall length: 27"
Weight: just over 12oz

Price: $40
Number available: 3

- - -

Disc pommel sword

This style of sword was popular during the second half of the middle ages, and is equally appropriate for Crusaders, knights, and anyone else who wants a classic, but not culture-specific, medieval style.

Core: 1/2" solid round fiberglass
Overall length: one is 36" long, the other two are 33".
Weight: about 17oz (the 36" is a little heavier)

Price: $45
Number available: 3

- - -

Viking swords

And finally, the classic Viking swords. One has a bronze guard and pommel, the others are steel gray.

Core: 1/2" solid round fiberglass
Overall length: 33"
Weight: about 17oz

Price: $45
Number available: 5

* * *

Shipping on all of these is $10 for one sword, plus $3 for each additional sword.

Feel free to ask me any questions about how I build these!

So you want to be a _____?

Step 1: Search this forum to see if anyone has started a topic about what you want to be yet. Use general search terms (ie, search for 'orc', not 'so you want to be a green warhammer orc with tusks'). If a topic already exists, read that topic first, and if you have additional questions feel free to ask them in that older thread and bump it back to the top. If you can't find an older topic about what you want...

Step 2: Start a new topic, with the name of what you want to be as the subject. Ie, '13th century knight from Poland,' or 'Mirkwood elf.' Please avoid vague thread titles like 'So I had this idea the other day...'

* * *

When you respond to threads here, try to be as helpful as possible. This subforum is designed to be a resource that players can reference for ideas for years to come, so please try to keep conversations polite and on topic!

If you have an old thread selling stuff and want it to be moved into this new sub-forum, please use the 'report to moderator' button to bring it to our attention. We're trying to move old threads in here, but we aren't going to be able to sort through the archives to dig up old posts, so flag what you want moved, and we'll do our best!

This forum is for buying, selling, and trading Dagorhir things.

It is open to all members. Fighters can come here to sell off an extra sword; mercenary units can start bidding wars for their fighting services at next month's campout; merchants can connect with the community and advertise their wares.

While this forum's primary purpose is to enable Dagorhir participants and merchants to sell/trade their goods, businesses that cater to the larger reenactment / medieval fantasy market may advertise their Dagorhir-appropriate merchandise here. We ask, however, that outside advertisors keep their advertising volume respectful and avoid spamming the forum with numerous threads. The moderator team reserves the right to define 'spamming.'

Transactions are between forum members. Dagorhir does not take any cuts, does not make any endorsements, and will not (and cannot) guarantee that someone might not try to rip you off. So be smart, just as you would on any other part of the internet.

Please keep all personal contact information in private messages.

Enjoy!

I had a customer back out on a large order for his chapter, so I'm offering the items for sale here!

I have:

7 simple blue swords.
5 plastidipped Viking swords.
2 plastidipped disc pommeled Knight swords.
1 medium weight axe.

All the swords are built with routed 4lb foam next to the core, and striking surfaces made from 2lb microcell. They all have biscuits on the core for added blade longevity, and are counterbalanced.

Every sword has a stab tip, built to the usual design that passes at most chapters I've visited (up and down the east coast). Stab tips are checked differently in every group, though, so I can't promise that these swords will pass as stabbing in your realm.

Here are details about each type of sword, along with their price.

* * *

The 7 simple blue swords - $30/each

These swords are plain, simple, solid swords made for hitting people. They're built on 1/2" solid round fiberglass and counter-weighted until they felt 'right' to me.

Weight: about 18oz
Length: 32.5"

* * *

Plastidipped swords - $45/each

These swords have simple plastidipped guards and pommels. They are otherwise constructed like the simple blue swords above.

Weight: about 18oz
Length: 32.5"

I have 5 of the 'Viking' style available, and 2 of the disc pommeled 'Knight' style.

* * *

Medium weight axe - $40

This axe is the last of the axes I built a few months ago. You can read about the construction here: http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=25820.0

Weight: 19.5 oz
Length: 33" from pommel to blade tip

This axe does not have a stab tip.

* * *

Shipping is $10 for the first item, and $3 for each additional.

Every weapon has a first weapon check guarantee - if it doesn't pass as blue at your first event, I'll make it right.

Here's a cutaway photo of how I build my javelin heads.

These javelins weigh right around 11oz (if you don't go overboard on the haft padding), fly beautifully, and don't injure you when someone accidentally throws one full force into your nose.

Here's a quick breakdown of how I build a sword blade from a routed 4lb fry, 1" thick strip of 2lb foam, and 1" thick marine foam stab tip.

First, cut a small scrap of 1/2" thick 4lb foam into a circle that's just a tiny bit wider than the tip of your core. This is your 'biscuit.'

Take two 3" long, 1/2" wide strips of strapping tape and make them into an X. Tape this X on your biscuit.

Tape your biscuit onto the tip of the core, compressing it onto the tip as hard as you can.

You now have a layer of super compressed foam on the tip of your core.

Cut a 3" long strip of 1" wide strapping tape; you'll wrap this around the tip to keep the biscuit from popping off.

Your biscuit is secured. The tip of your core is now a slightly rounded, super-compressed but still slightly squishy lump of foam. This firm, rounded tip will be a little gentler to the inside of your 4lb fry, reducing the chance that the edge of your core's tip will bite into and cut through the 4lb foam. In other words, it keeps the core's tip from being so sharp that it cuts its way out of the sword, thereby improving overall longevity. It's also the base of your stab tip.

Sand the strapping tape with a medium-fine sandpaper (say, 160 or 200 grit) to rough up the smooth surface of the strapping tape. This will allow DAP to stick to it better, reducing the chance of tip blowouts even further.

Now get your routed 4lb strip.

Cover the strip with a good layer of DAP. Don't drown it, but don't be cheap either. Let the DAP get tacky, or even dry to the touch.

Cover the core in DAP. Immediately stick it down into the routed fry (don't let it dry). Make sure it's in the routed channel, but don't worry that it isn't sticking yet. Let it sit in the routed fry until it, too, is dry to the touch.

Once the core is dry to the touch, press it down into the channel (which it is already resting in). It should stick now. Make sure that the whole thing is laying on a flat surface for this step, or the blade will have a twist in it!

Now it's time to fold the other half of the fry onto the core. This step will be trickier, because all of the glue is now dry to the touch and will stick instantly, so you only get one try.

You'll want to bend the fry at a sharp angle, like pictured.

When you hold it at this sharp angle, the foam channel pulls open at the
bend, making it easy to fold it completely around the core. If you don't do this, you'll find that it's very difficult to get the fry down over the core without getting stuck half way (remember, the DAP is dry to the touch, so it will stick permanently to the first thing it touches).

And bam! You have a box around the core. Make sure the foam has stuck to the core uniformly by setting the sword down on a hard, flat surface and pressing down on it (use your body weight, or stack some books on it).

At this point, the tip is going to want to pull apart. If you have a vice, you can clamp the tip for a few minutes/hours. Or you can leave the sword with books stacked on it overnight. Alternatively, you can just keep an eye on it and press it back together if you see it starting to pull apart.

It's best to wait a day before going on to the next step (allowing the DAP in the tip to dry completely so it can't pull apart), but you don't have to.

Now grab your 2lb foam, give it and your 4lb box a good coat of DAP (again, don't be stingy, but don't drown it either).

Once they're both dry to the touch, press them together. Then put DAP on the tip, and on your stab tip.

Once they're dry to the touch, press the stab tip on. Then trim the corners off with a sharp knife.

Corners trimmed!

Run a piece of strapping tape from one flat to the other (we're following Solusar's stab tip tutorial for this).

Tear a piece of strapping tape in half, and run it diagonally over the tip as illustrated.

~~Run a strip of duct tape the length of each flat. This reinforces the seams.~~

(I don't actually do this step anymore - it didn't really add any durability, and the edges of the duct tape sometimes cut into the sides of the blade. My advice would be to skip this step, and proceed directly to the handle and pommel.)

Next, you'll want to add a handle and pommel. I'm not going to illustrate how I do this here, since this is a blade tutorial, but there have been some good discussions on the boards about this in the past that you can look up with a search. (For my swords, I use a combination of leather and pennies and bar stock and carpet tape to make the handle oblong and counter weighted.)

Then I give it a cover (again, not the subject for this tutorial).

And it's done!

Yet again, they've proven themselves to be my favorite kitespar supplier.

In the past, I've found Goodwinds hollow fiberglass to be noticeably stronger than the cheaper kitespar I've purchased from other suppliers (a spear built from Goodwinds spar lasted all week being trampled at Rag and is still going strong; two built from generic kitespar snapped after about 2 hours). They sell a quality product.

So I ordered a bunch a few weeks ago, but it never showed up. Yesterday I emailed the company asking if they could update me, and they called me 15 minutes later and spoke to me in person. I love it when companies do this - I was just expecting a quick email, but instead I got to talk to a person who told me how to track down my package. Add awesome customer service to a superior product.

And it turns out my package had stalled in a USPS shipping depot for a week, as sometimes happens with their cheap Parcel Post mailing option; it arrived today, with everything in perfect condition just as I had ordered.

These guys are monsters, and so much fun to fight with.

Construction:

Like all my axes, these are built with super dense 4lb EVA heads. The heads have been reinforced on the sides and bottom with leather, and everywhere with strapping tape. They're very solid, and built with shield hooking and general brutality in mind.

The blades are made from a mix of 2lb microcell and marine foam. They hit like a safely padded freight train.

The tips of the blades are built for stabbing. Some weapon checkers will pass this as green (they passed as green this weekend at Summer Slaughter); others want there to be a big spike above the core and won't allow you to stab with these since the stab tip is on the front end of the blade. If you would like me to add a spike above the tip of the core, I can do this for an extra $5.

The core is 3/4" solid fiberglass, giving a good weight, plenty of stiffness, and tons of durability.

The haft is padded with a progressive build of 4lb eva and 2lb microcell.

Specs:

The two shorter axes are 57" long, and weigh 3lb 2oz.

The longer axe is now sold.
~~The longer axe is 62" long, and weighs 3lb 4.5oz.~~

These have the usual first weapon check guarantee (if they don't pass as red, I make it right).

Price is $60/ea. Shipping is unfortunately a little expensive at $18/ea, because of the axes' length. I can do combined shipping rates if you want more than one of these, or would like to grab some blue swords or sword fries at the same time.

I've got axes!

They're all blue (no green, sorry!). Each is built on a solid fiberglass core. Every axe has leather reinforcing the sides of the head and the bottom of the beard, allowing them to stand up to brutal shield hooking. The heads have been reinforced with strapping tape for further durability. They're super sturdy.

The heads are built from a very dense 4lb foam. The hafts are padded with microcell. The striking surface is a combination of 2lb microcell and tear-resistant volara. The handles are wrapped in rope, and finished with hockey tape. The pommels are built from a blend of 4lb and 2lb foams, carefully reinforced with tape. The hafts are covered with a lightweight cotton, and the heads with a sturdy polyester.

I have currently available:

Medium length, standard weight: 5 3 available
- 19.5 oz
- 33" from pommel to blade tip
- 2/3" round solid fiberglass core
- $40

Medium length, lightweight: 1 0 available
- 14.5oz
- 33" from pommel to blade tip
- 1/2" round solid fiberglass core
- $40

Short, standard weight: 1 0 available
- 16.5oz
- 27" from pommel to tip
- 2/3" round solid fiberglass core
- $37

Long, standard weight: 2 0 available
- 22.5oz
- 39.5" pommel to tip
- 2/3" round solid fiberglass core
- $45

As always, these have a first weapon check guarantee!

Shipping is $10 for the first, + $3 for any number of additional.

I have 14 swords for sale, all built with the latest foamsmithing technology and the highest quality foams. 6 are simple and undecorated, and 8 have been decorated with plasti-dipped pommels and crossguards.

Construction (all the swords):

1/2" solid round fiberglass core, with biscuited tip
Routed 4lb EVA foam box next to the core, for added durability
1" thick 2lb microcell striking surfaces
Counterbalanced until they felt lively in the hand
Marine foam stab tips
Sturdy cottom bottomweight cover

Here's what they look like beneath their covers and tape:

Specs (all the swords):

Length: 32.5"
Weight: between 17 - 18 oz (each sword is slightly different)
Blade dimensions: 3" × 1.5"

- - -

Six of the swords are the classic Dag style with no crossguards and simple pommels. They are $30 / each.

---

Eight of the swords have plasti-dipped crossguards and pommels, 4 with Viking-style pommels and 4 with knightly disc pommels (one has a cross on it). The plasti-dipped swords are $45 / each.

---

All swords are guaranteed to pass as blue on their first weapon check or I give you a refund. The stab tips should also pass, but I can't provide a guarantee for them because the checking of stab tips across the country is still so subjective and inconsistent. In my personal experience, I have only had a stab tip of the type I build fail twice in the past three years.

Shipping is $8 for one sword, + $3 for each additional. I am also able to deliver in person to Summer Slaughter (the upcoming Florida campout).

I just spotted some cheap riveted mail on the armour archive. It's got some rust patches to clean up, but it's a good deal at $170.

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=152050

As always, I don't know this person personally, so caveat emptor.

The toughest part of building a top-quality weapon is the initial investment in materials. You have to buy an entire sheet of 4lb foam, a sheet of 2lb foam, fiberglass, and a roll of yoga mat. You can end up paying as much for shipping as you do for the materials themselves, unless you buy in bulk. And you'll need to buy a router to cut channels in your 4lb foam. This is a several hundred dollar investment, and you wind up with enough materials to build dozens of swords. But what if you only want to build one nice sword instead of 50, and don't want (or can't afford) to invest in several hundred dollars of foam?

When Brutus was running Best Dag Stuff a few years ago, my favorite part of his business was that he offered things like routed 4lb fries, small sheets of high quality foam, stab tip kits, and individual fiberglass cores - things that he purchased in bulk and then made available individually at reasonable prices. With Best Dag Stuff gone, however, the Dagorhir community hasn't really had anyone to fill this gap. So, over the past few months, I've been tracking down foam suppliers, finding the best prices on the best materials, and slowly building a stock of foam and fiberglass to try to fill that need. I'll be offering some basic supplies in small quantities with low shipping rates, in order to make the best materials and latest foamsmithing tech available to as many people as possible.

I'm starting small and building my capital as I go, so my stocks right now are modest. If these materials sell well, I'll turn the proceeds around and buy even more supplies to keep this growing.

I don't have any secret suppliers or backdoor connections that get me super secret special deals that I can't share, and I'm going to do my best to be transparent about my sources so you can cut out the middle man (me!) and buy in bulk if you want to. But if you just want to get enough foam for 2 or 3 blades without buying in bulk, I'd like to give you that option here.

* * *

Here's what I'm stocking right now:

1) Routed 4lb fries - $3.50 each. These are 1.5" wide, 48" long strips of .5" thick 4lb microcell foam. They are very firm, and are routed to fit snugly around a fiberglass core. They provide a firm base on which to build the rest of the blade, reducing the frequency of tip blowouts (ie, your blade lasts longer) and distributing the impact of the core over a greater surface area (ie, your sword is less likely to core out and hit too hard). You put these strips on the core first, and then add two layers of blue foam, or (even better) 1" of high quality 2lb foam, over top.

I can route them to fit the following cores:
1/2" round (and .524" kitespar)
1/2" square
3/8" round
3/8" square

I include a scrap of 4lb microcell from which you can cut a biscuit for the tip of the core.
Foam source: www.foamforyou.com (not currently listed on their website, but email them and ask - they carry it)

CURRENT STOCK: Taking pre-orders, expected to be ready to ship by early September

- - -

2) 2lb blade strips - $3 each. These are 1.5" wide, 48" long strips of 1" thick 2lb microcell foam. These strips go over the 4lb foam to pad the blade. The microcell foam is so much nicer than blue foam! It has a fine celled texture (no big open bubbles like blue foam), is very tear resistant, and hits just right (with no breaking in period, unlike blue foam).

Foam source: www.foamforyou.com

CURRENT STOCK: Taking pre-orders, expected to be ready to ship by early September

- - -

3) 1/2" Round fiberglass cores - $2.50 each for 30" long, $4 for longer cores (up to 5'). These are your standard pultruded fiberglass cores. They're easy to find online, but shipping can get expensive when you only want to order 1 or 2.

Source: www.kencove.com

Note that you can get these cores at 5' long for $2.50 each from Kencove, so why buy from me? If you only want one 30" core, I can ship it for $4 (Kencove will charge you $10.69 for a single rod). Buying small qantities from me will be cheaper for you because of the cost of shipping, especially if you're also buying some foam strips from me at the same time and want to combine shipping over the multiple items. If you want lots of cores, buying direct from Kencove might be a better deal for you. Do the math, and go with whichever's cheapest for you.

CURRENT STOCK: SOLD OUT

- - -

4) Marine foam stab tips - 75¢ each. These are 1.5" x 5" blocks of .75" thick marine foam (ensolite). Try this if you don't want to buy a whole roll of yoga mat, or can't track down a cheap Big Lots stadium seat.

Source: www.foamforyou.com

CURRENT STOCK: 100+

- - -

Shipping costs are low, usually only a few dollars per item. Contact me and I can give you a quote for your whole order.

After a lot of research, Gorg and I just got a large shipment of microcell from www.foamforyou.com , and it's some of the nicest 2lb foam I've ever used.

When Gorg called the company before ordering, they claimed that what they were selling was a generic of brand name EVAlite. Comparing samples of each, they're very similar, though the microcell has a slightly finer cell texture and seems to be even more tear resistant than the EVAlite. It seems to be more rugged than the minicel from www.foambymail.com , though the smoother texture of the microcell does remind me of minicel. There's no comparison between this foam and generic 'EVA foam' (which is crap, tears really easily, and is too soft to make safe weapons without using extra padding).

The other foam that's been getting a lot of good press lately is volara. Hearsay says that Forged Foam uses volara, and a comparison of samples suggests that this is correct. It's cheap, but annoyingly doesn't come any thicker than .5", so you have to layer it up to the correct thickness. It's good stuff, pretty tear resistant, and I particularly like the 1/4" as a final tear-resistant layer on weapons that need extra padding (ie, red weapons) or for a stabilizing wrap around spear heads (again, tear resistant).

I'm liking the microcell more than the volara right now, though - it's sturdy, hits nicely, comes in convenient 1" thick sheets, and is really just a gorgeous foam. On a large order, the cost worked out to a little less than twice the cost of blue foam. I think it's worth it.

(I've already cut a bunch of the foam into strips (thanks to Gorg kindly letting me use his bandsaw!), and will be selling individual strips after Rag for people who don't want to order an entire sheet.)

What 2lb foams do other people like to use?

Ilsa needed a new utility knife for Ragnarok, so I made her one.

My tools are currently very limited, so instead of trying to make a knife from hand with no tools other than a file (a project I started but didn't finish last year) I decided to find a suitably medieval-looking modern knife and dress it up.

Here's the original knife, purchased for $7.50 at Walmart:

And here's how it turned out:

All it took was a leather wrap around the handle (using this method), a leather sheath (this tutorial), and 30 seconds of sandpapering to remove FARBERWARE from the side of the blade, and Ilsa has a new knife!

And I'm pretty pleased. It's actually a rebuild of a sword I fought with two years ago and loved, but which broke. I finally got around to reblading it and dressing it up in time for Ragnarok.

(I also did some repairs on my shield, pictured with the sword. I think the new rim looks more like rawhide than the pleather I used last year

)

It's 33" long and weighs 33.4oz. I used a 1/2" round fiberglass core with a progressive build of 4lb EVA and 2lb microcell for the blade. Stabbing, of course. And lots of counter weighting to bring it past 2lb.

The handle is wrapped in leather. The Plastidip job isn't the best I've seen, though it might be some of my better work (which goes to say, PD isn't something I've mastered yet).

It's heavy. It handles pretty well for all that, and definitely feels like a real sword. It hits really well (the 4lb foam seems to make a noticeable difference here). It pivots a little closer to the tip (and balances a little closer to the hand) than a typical Viking Age sword, making it a little better for thrusting than the average type X. It's also about a half pound lighter than typical, and 2-3" short (though I can find some documentation for both variances). For an 11th century western European blade, this is on the nimble side of the documented spectrum. I like it.

I was hoping to have pottery for sale at Ragnarok this year, but I dropped the ball and didn't get my consignment form filled out in time.

I do, however, have a website where I've posted all my current stock of pottery, and while I cannot sell it to you at Ragnarok this year, I can deliver it to you at Ragnarok for free if you place your orders by next Wednesday, June 13, at noon.

I trained with a wonderful potter up in Pennsylvania for several years. Now, I spend my free time making reproductions of medieval pottery and modern pieces that are inspired by the medieval styles I study. Everything on my website is foodsafe, dishwasher safe, and microwaveable. Everything is made by hand and one of a kind.

www.yfelwulf.com

Here are some photos of a few of the pieces on my website:

And a few of the historical pieces:

And a cute photo of Ilsa selling pottery at Olympics a few years back!

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You can place orders on my website (when you order, it will redirect you to paypal where you can pay with your paypal account or with a credit or debit card). When you check out, choose the shipping option 'Pick up your order in person at Dagorhir's Ragnarok campout.'

Get your orders in in the next week!

www.yfelwulf.com

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EDIT:

I just announced a one-week, 15% off sale over on the Armour Archive, and it wouldn't be fair not to extend that sale to everyone here! The coupon code is ARCHIVE2012, and the sale will run through next Wednesday, when I'll close up shop and pack the car for Ragnarok.

I have 9 blue swords for sale. They're built with the latest tech, close attention to details, and turned out very lively in the hand and surprisingly light weight.

Specs:

Length: 33"
Weight: between 14.5 and 16oz
Blade dimensions: 1.25" × 3"

Construction:

They're built on 3/8" square fiberglass cores.

I biscuited the core with 4lb EVA, and boxed it with routed 4lb EVA strips. Then I added a 1" thick wrap of 2lb microcell.

Each sword has a 3/4" marine foam stab tip reinforced with strapping tape. There's a single strip of duct tape up each flat to reinforce the seams.

The handles are oblong, counterbalanced, wrapped with rope, and finished with hockey tape.

The pommels are built with 4lb foam with a softer 1.8lb foam cap on the bottom.

The covers are a sturdy doubleknit, held on with drawstrings.

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I'd like to get $30 / each for these.

Shipping on a single sword is $7, + $3 for each additional. Delivery at Ragnarok is free (with pre-payment)!

I'll guarantee these to pass as blue on their first weapon check, or you get a refund. I can't promise that the stab tips will pass - they're firm, and different weapon checkers still have different opinions on what constitutes a safe thrusting tip. I have good luck getting this style of stab tip to pass on my personal weapons.

PM me if you're interested!

It's a commission, so not for me unfortunately. I'm really happy with how it feels in the hand, and I wish I could have a good fight with it before I send it off to its new home. Alas!

It's all foam, built with a 4lb eva base padded on the face and edges with 2lb microcell. The width is 29". The boss isn't quite as shiny in real life as the flash on the camera makes it look - it's just a shiny fabric.

I recently acquired a router (hint: Harbor Freight has a sale right now, check it out), and am wondering if people would be interested in 4lb EVA fries routed to fit a 1/2" round core.

These fries fit snugly around the core, and their greater firmness (twice that of blue foam) helps prevent tip blowouts (where the core rips through softer foams or comes out the side of the blade). It also helps to distribute impacts through the whole width of the blade, which improves longevity and makes it less likely that you'll bruise someone with the core when the blade foam finally starts to break down. I know many of us have been using these for a while with good results.

Crunching the numbers on foam prices, I think I can make them for $3.50 each. They'd be 48" long, 1.5" wide, 1/2" thick. Shipping would be $3 for one fry, plus $1 for each additional.

Would people be interested?

I'm hoping someone here has the experience to answer this question -

I'm wondering what thickness of solid pultruded carbon fiber I would need for a 7' lightweight spear core. A bit of flex is ok, but I want it to be stiff enough to hit what I'm aiming at (and pass weapon check, of course). Would .375" work? Or would I need .4" or .5"? I have no idea how stiff this stuff is.

Lightweight is important; other materials like bandshoppe won't get me what I'm looking for, and I'm trying to avoid kitespar.

Ilsa's new hoopak, ready for the day battle tomorrow!

(It's a spear with a forked pommel - or a rock-throwing stick - depending on which end you look at!)

This is version 2. Version 1 was build on pvc and was a little awkward to use. For this version, we've improved the sling (it throws much better, now) and built it on kitespar with a sturdier fork. This guy's a comfortable 25.5oz.

P90X - worth it? Waste of money for exercises that can be gotten for free from online fitness websites? I hesitate to spend so much money on a program that advertises with infomercials.

Ilsa and I passed the physical test on the website so we could do it if we wanted to. But is it the right use of our time, energy, and money?

I know many of you have tried or are continuing to use this program, so I'm hoping for some advice from people who have experience with the program. If you DON'T like it, do you have anything that you'd recommend as a better alternative?

(Our goal is building more strength and endurance. Our weight is decent but we're soft around the edges and want to build our bodies back up toward fit by Rag.)

[EDIT: updated with my current stock, ready for delivery to Rag]

Javelins!

I have ten javelins in stock, six (6) fiberglass cored (weighing about 11oz) and four (4) graphite cored (weighing about 9oz).

All are just over 48" long. Like all my other javelins, the heads are built with a mixture of 4lb EVA, 2lb microcell, marine foam, and high quality open cell. The hafts are cloth covered. They're guaranteed to pass their first weapon check, or I give you a refund.

Fiberglass javelins are $30/each. Graphite are $35/each.

Delivery to Ragnarok is free. If you can't make it to Ragnarok and want one, shipping is $7 for 1, + $3 for each extra javelin you order.
Paypal preferred!

CURRENT STOCK: 6 fiberglass, 4 graphite

I have a hauberk of butted mail for sale.

This is some of the nicest butted I've seen and I've held onto it for a few years, even though I have riveted now and no longer have a need for it, because it's such a good shirt. But it's taking up space, and hoarding it means that no one gets to wear it, so it's time to find it a new home.

The rings are flat, which gives the mail a shimmer that looks, from a distance, more like riveted than butted. It's pretty sturdy, too; like all butted mail, it requires the occasional repair (the armpits, as always, have a tendency to tear), but it didn't fall apart in hard use the way some cheaper mail does. In my few years of experience, I'd rate it above average for durability.

It's mild steel with no galvenization, which means it has to be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust. It has a thin coat of Fluid Film spray (oil) on it right now. The dull finish of the mild steel is more historically accurate than the zinc finish of most reproductions, and it just looks cooler (to my eyes, at least!).

It's been tailored to fit my 39" chest with a bit of ease. It's also a good length for my 5'7" height. It should fit someone a few inches larger or a hair smaller than myself.

I'd like to get $165 for it, with free shipping anywhere in the US that a large flat rate box can go. I'm also willing to entertain offers. And if you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them!

I just finished three super-light javelins that I'd like to sell. Here's what set these apart from ordinary javelins:

- The head is built on a base of 4lb foam, to safely distribute the force of impact and to increase the weapon's longevity. That foam is reinforced with a leather disk, to keep the core from pushing through.

- The core is a lightly flexible hollow graphite, making these javelins very light while retaining enough flexibility to keep them safe and to prevent them from shattering when they're stepped on.

- Cloth covered shafts, which are more attractive and more durable than tape.

- Disgustingly lightweight. These three javelins weigh 9.1 , 9.3 , and 9.4 oz, making them some of the lightest javelins in Dagorhir. This makes them very safe and increases their range, while not interfering with their throwing characteristics.

- Well balanced. Finding the right balance between weight in the head and weight in the pommel is important for making a javelin that throws straight. Sometimes I get this right, sometimes I miss it. I got it right on these javelins, and they're easy to throw straight to the target.

- Constructed entirely from high-quality foams. The base of the head is 4lb EVA, the haft is padded with EVA (reinforced with tape to prevent tearing), and the striking surface is a blend of microcell, marine foam, and V90 open cell. You'll find about 2in² of blue foam in the pommels, but they're mostly made from EVA and microcell.

Here's a photograph of the javelins:

They're just over 48" long. And as I said above, weigh between 9.1 and 9.4oz each.

Guaranteed to pass their first weapon check or you get your money back.

These things throw like a dream, and I'm going to be making some more of them for myself before Ragnarok. They're some of the best I've ever built.

I'd like $35/ each, or $100 for the lot. Shipping will cost $7 for one javelin, $10 for two, and $13 for all three. I like Paypal. Contact me if you're interested!

I've added some contemporary, fantasy-inspired pottery to my website! These are for all of you who aren't aiming for historical accuracy but still want to have something special on your table at an event (or at home!).

Handmade ceramics have a personality that mass-produced dishes lack (I eat every meal off of pottery like this, and love the way every bowl and mug has its own character), and there are few realer ways to connect to the people of the past than to eat off of a dish that's made by hand.

Many potters stick to a limited set of glazes and styles, making numerous nearly identical copies of the same small selection of designs. I've done this myself with my medieval styles, and it's not a bad thing - that's how we keep costs down. Each of these contemporary pieces, however, is an individual experiment with new glazes and shapes. Everything here is truly one of a kind.

Everything is food-, microwave-, and dishwasher safe, of course.

I added more than 40 items to my website tonight. I've included a few sample photographs below, but you should check out the site to see everything!

www.yfelwulf.com/index.php/contemporary

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I also still have lots of early medieval, and a bit of later medieval, pottery available on my site, for the historical types!

Early medieval: http://www.yfelwulf.com/index.php/early-medieval

Late medieval: http://www.yfelwulf.com/index.php/late-medieval

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I've done my best to keep my shipping prices reasonable, but the cost of packing materials plus USPS rates can add some sticker shock. If you see something you really like but can't afford shipping, I would be willing to set it aside for delivery at Ragnarok (with payment in advance - I'm not allowed to take money at Ragnarok because I'm not a Rag merchant).

www.yfelwulf.com

If I took a poll of how many people stayed up all night the day before Ragnarok getting ready, how many of us would raise our hands? I'm guessing it's well over half of us (and the other half can go die in a fire for being so well prepared!). At this point in my Dag career, I've given up hope of ever being 'ready,' and will probably stay up all night the day before this year as well. But with that said, it's still good to plan ahead!

What are the projects you hope to complete before Ragnarok? Do you have a list of garb to make, weapons to build, improvements to make to your camp, recipes to try, physical training programs to complete?

I'm working on my own list that I'll share here, but I'd love to see what the rest of you have in the works!

(Ragnarok countdown: 114 days!)

A number of people have been complaining today about difficulty connection to the boards or posting replies to topics. I've had some of this trouble myself. As far as I can tell, this is a problem on the server's end, not with the configuration of the boards (ie, this isn't something we can fix on our end). If the problem persists, I'll contact the hosting company and see if they can do something to resolve the issue.

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