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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Anybody want a Viking hat (I have two that need homes!)
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on: January 15, 2012, 01:59:35 am
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I have two 6-panel Viking hats that are looking for a home! The first is gently used, from a medium weight blue wool. It's completely hand stitched with wool thread. This hat is a little large on my 23.5" head.   One of the construction seams (note that the inside seams aren't finished; but the wool is fulled enough that it doesn't want to unravel).  - - - The second hat is wonderfully accurate in the details. The fabric is made from the wool of Shetland sheep, a breed whose wool is very similar to the types in use during the Viking Age. The weave, a 2/2 twill in contrasting colored threads, was very common. The hat is sewn by hand, with hand-spun Shetland wool thread. It fits Ilsa's 22" head perfectly.  The construction seams (finished with an overcast stitch to prevent fraying):  - - - I'd like to get $15 for the blue hat and $20 for the brown hat. Please make me an offer if you feel that to be unreasonable. $1 shipping to anywhere in the 48 states, Paypal preferred (but I'm open to alternatives). Thanks for looking! |
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61
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Lots of Viking and Anglo-Saxon pottery for sale [also, some 14th century!]
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on: October 30, 2011, 07:30:39 pm
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Right now, I've got a large stock of Anglo-Saxon and Viking pottery for sale, all of it dating between the 9th and 11th centuries. I've included a few sample pictures below, but I've put most of it on a website that I've been developing: www.yfelwulf.comI'll be going live with this on the Armour Archive next week (where pottery usually sells pretty quickly), but I know there are a few people in Dagorhir who might be interested, so I thought I'd share it here first to give you first pick. Everything is handmade by myself, and glazed with modern foodsafe glazes that imitate the colors of the original pottery (which was either unglazed or glazed with lead). Everything is microwave and dishwasher safe, and made from a sturdy stoneware clay. I've done my best, on my website, to explain the research that went into each piece: where it came from and what sources I relied upon for my recreations. I'm happy to answer any further questions about my research and the accuracy of my recreations, if you'd like to know more. Because I'm a hobbiest potter, I can only make stock for sale in my free time. Most of that free time is in the summer, so my current inventory is only here until it sells; I might not be able to restock until after next Ragnarok, though I'll try to replace some stock as it sells (but I can't make any promises!). Ie, if you see something you like, it's best not to wait too long. Here's a teaser for what I've put up on my website: Birka Pitchers (9th-10th c.)   ( See all the Birka pitchers that I have in stock here) Anglo-Saxon pitchers (10-11th c.)      ( See all the Anglo-Saxon pitchers I have in stock here) Miscelaneous! Viking cups  More Viking cups  Brown plate  Anglo-Saxon cups  Anglo-Saxon bowl  Anglo-Saxon oil lamps  Large Anglo-Saxon serving dish ( See all my stock here) - - - To order, visit my website: www.yfelwulf.com . If you have any questions, you can contact me there, or through a PM here. Best, A |
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62
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Stuff I'm learning about winingas
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on: October 20, 2011, 08:17:49 pm
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I've been working on writing the description of winingas for www.tailoredtunics.com , and I'm learning some interesting things. Struggling through the German archaeological report, Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu, I'm learning more about the weaves used in winingas. We've always made winingas from herringbone, but apparently only one of the five winingas found at Hedeby (a 10th c. Danish trading city) was made from a herringbone (technically, it was a chevron twill, not a proper herringbone, but they're almost identical weaves). The other winingas from Hedeby were also made with a 2/2 twill or a plain tabby (1/1) weave. The report also says that the winingas recovered from Thorsberg and Damendorf (bog finds dating several centuries earlier) were both also made from a 2/2 twill. However, the author of the report says that every wining found at the settlement of Elisenhof was made of a chevron twill. That means that, while it is correct to recreate winingas from herringbone, it's also correct to use a 2/2 twill (what's marketed today as 'wool flannel' at Joann's, also fabricmartfabric.com's Shetland wool), and even from a simple tabby weave (normal wool suiting). There are more options available than I'd realized! The tabby-woven wining found at Hedeby was cut into a band, not woven to the proper size (unlike the others, which were woven as bands, as were the ones recoverd from Elisenhof). The report says that similar hemmed winingas have been found in bogs (Obenaltendorf). So our cheat of cutting winingas from a larger piece of fabric and hemming them is, in fact, historical. I haven't been able to learn how the edges of the fabric were finished, though. If I'm reading correctly, the winingas from Thorsberg had a tablet woven pattern on the edge of the band. Most woven-to-width winingas has simple selvages, however. The Hedeby report doesn't say anything about the colors of the bands. I'm guessing they didn't do the chemical analysis necessary to determine what dyes were used (as the pieces are now all a uniform brown, after being under water for a thousand years). |
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63
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Events / Event-Related Announcements / Pottery for sale at Pentwyvern Harvest Feast!
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on: October 12, 2011, 01:11:48 am
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I'm going to be selling pottery at Pentwyvern this year. I'll be bringing both historical and contemporary / fantasy pieces, and will have dozens of cups and mugs, a wide assortment of plates and bowls, pitchers, jugs, and oil lamps. Prices for mugs range between $10-15, bowls $9-12, plates $10-12. Everything is food, dishwasher, and microwave safe. Everything is made by myself (with some help from Ilsa on the glazes). Here's a sneak peak of some of the things I'll be bringing: Contemporary / fantasy:
 And some closeups:    Historical pottery: (ranging from the 9th - 15th centuries)  - - - I'll see you this weekend! |
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64
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General / Website / How to hide posts by users who annoy you
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on: October 06, 2011, 02:42:07 am
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Dagorhir tends to attract a lot of nerds, and we get our share of people with awkward communication skills on the forums. It's sometimes tempting to harass the worst offenders in the hope that they will shape up or go away. Unfortunately, those dog piles clog up the boards with thread derails and heated arguments that get in everybody else's way (many people I talk to face-to-face cite these arguments as the reason they do not use these boards). Another less disruptive option is to modify your profile to hide the posts of the annoying user. You'll still have the option of reading what they wrote, but only if you choose to. To ignore a user, go to your Profile > Personal Messages > Ignorelist, and type (or copy/paste) the user's name onto the list. It says that this will block their PMs, but it also hides ALL their posts at the same time. (See the attached image for an example of what it looks like when a user is blocked.) When a user refuses to listen to your good advice, insists on posting poor-taste meme posters, or canntspelorusepunctuation to save an alot, consider ignoring them instead of pulling the thread off topic by trying to give them advice they've already proven they're going to ignore. |
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65
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / Where do you get marine foam?
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on: October 03, 2011, 09:04:45 pm
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'The best stabbing tips are made from marine foam.'Over the past several years, this statement has become the consensus across most Dagorhir chapters. Finding marine foam, however, can be confusing for the simple reason that stores do not call any products on their shelves 'marine foam.' If you do a google search for marine foam, the top results will be the wrong kind of foam. That's because 'marine foam' is a Dagorhir term for something for which manufacturers and retailers have a variety of different names. This article is designed to help you learn what to look for. What does marine foam look and feel like?Marine foam feels like a cross between a marshmallow and a gummy candy. It's a closed cell foam (like blue foam camp pads), but it's softer than camp pads. When you look at the edge of the foam, you can see bubbles (just like camp pad). Here's what the foam looks like, zoomed in close:  (this is marine foam!) Do not confuse marine foam with EVA foam! EVA foam is also softer than blue foam and feels like a marshmallow. It does not, however, have bubbles on its edge (it's almost perfectly smooth). This is what EVA looks like (NOT marine foam):  (this is not marine foam) Where do you find it?You can get marine foam from a number of sources. 1) Seat cushions. Many stores sell seat cushions (for sporting events or hunting) made from 3/4" thick marine foam. Here is one from Big Lots ($4):  Here is another sold by Therm-a-Seat for hunters ($7-8):  Dick's sporting goods also sells a similar seat cushion. 2) Yoga mats. Walmart sells a yoga mat by Gold's Gym for $20 that's made from 3/8" thick marine foam. You can find it in the workout equipment section, rolled up just like blue camp pad.  3) Gardening kneeling pads. These used to be a great source for marine foam, but lately more and more kneeling pads have been made from EVA foams (look at the edge - if there are no bubbles, it's EVA, not marine foam). 4) The internet! If you want to look for a large batch of marine foam online, search for Ensolite or Insulite. Here are two retailers that sell these foams (this is not an exhaustive list): http://www.foambymail.com/gymnastic-rubber.htmlhttp://foamforyou.com/out_door_foam.htm#60 (scroll down and look for 'Insulite') - - - Now, build some stabbing tips!
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66
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / Where do people get 1/2" solid, round fiberglass these days?
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on: September 29, 2011, 09:37:01 pm
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I ordered a bunch a few years ago, and I'm finally running out. The place I got it before ( www. http://electric-horse-fence.com/ ) now only sells them in sets of 10, and while enough fiberglass to build 20 swords does sound pretty cool, I really only need a half dozen or so. Does anyone else have a preferred supplier for individual 1/2" solid, round cores? I'm perfectly capable of googling, of course, but I didn't want to try to reinvent the wheel, and also realized that we haven't talked about this here for a while, and therefore that there might be other curious people out there. |
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72
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General / Website / Hey Hiram!
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on: July 26, 2011, 11:41:59 am
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I have a question for you, but I haven't been able to get in touch with you. Shoot me an email?
Thanks!
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79
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General / Rules rules rules / Covering plastic safety equipment: musings on PLAYABILITY
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on: June 22, 2011, 12:25:09 pm
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5.1.12 - Rigid plastic safety equipment for knee and elbow protection is permitted but must be concealed under clothing. It does not count as armor. Hitherto, I've thought that plastic kneepads were required to be covered for realism. That made it a question of looks, which rightly or wrongly makes it the lowest priority of things to worry about. This Rag, I fought almost entirely with a spear and shield, meaning that 95% of my hits on people were with a single green. That meant that, when I saw someone wearing armor, I'd write them off as a viable target unless they had gaps that I could exploit. If someone had enough armor on, I'd give up trying to kill him and focus my attention on the unarmored fighters next to him. I noticed that I would routinely not throw leg shots on fighters wearing rigid plastic kneepads, especially if they were also wearing greaves with the kneepads. I remember encountering a number of fighters who had black leather greaves and black plastic knee pads, and I instinctively avoided throwing leg shots on them because the corner of my eye instinctively interpreted the plastic armor as something I couldn't stab through. Which brings me to my point: Visible rigid plastic safety equipment on knees and elbows isn't just about realism, it's also a problem with playability (at least for me), because it resembles armor closely enough that it can evoke a 'don't single green that, it's armor' response from spearmen. Has anyone else (spearmen in particular) had similar confused reactions to plastic knee pads, or is this just me being too slow to recognize the difference between plastic and leather out of the corner of my eye? |
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82
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Yardsale! CHEAP old garb and a few weapons and feast gear.
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on: June 01, 2011, 02:24:45 am
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GARB: I spent some time digging through my parents' basement today, and found a box of my old garb that I don't wear anymore. It's all heavily worn, but still in enough of one piece that someone else could get some use of it. All prices are negotiable - if you want something and don't like what I'm asking for it, email me with an offer. If we can agree on a new price, it's yours.I can deliver everything here to Ragnarok. But I cannot take money at Rag, so if you want to pick it up there, you need to pay in advance (paypal is best, but I suppose you could write me a check and mail it if you wanted to). I can also ship it to you for $7/garment (I can combine shipping on multiple purchases, so two would cost less than $14). I'm a 39" chest. If you look at the pictures, you can see that some of the tunics fit me really well, and some are a little large or small. You can use that to guess if they'll fit you, or you can ask me for a specific measurement (or send me your chest measurement) and I'll check if a particular garment will fit you. - - - SOLDTUNIC 1: $15   This was my first nice tunic. It's 100% cotton, and doesn't show much wear. The inside seams aren't finished, but they've not come apart in the many times this has been worn. - - - SOLDTUNIC 2: $15     This tunic has a good story. I went to Tunisia a few years ago, and spent a day wandering the street markets in Tunis. After a lot of wandering down Aladin-style alleyways full of street vendors, I found a dark shop piled with bolts of fabric. The shop owner didn't speak any English, and I didn't know the Arabic or French for 'linen,' but I managed to find this green linen (or linen look?) and purchased two meters for *cheap*. I got home two days before Ragnarok, quickly sewed this into a tunic, and wore it happily the next week. It's battered, but in pretty good shape. The seams are finished. - - - SOLDTUNIC 3: $13    grass stains on the elbows.  This was my first feast tunic, and my first project working with linen (this is a linen-rayon blend from Joann fabric). The neck and cuffs are crudely handsewn and the seams inside are finished. The sleeves are a little short on me (I'm 5'7"). It's got grass stains on the elbows. - - - SOLDTUNIC 4: $15    small tear on gore.  small tear in underarm. This was my first project in 100% linen, and my absolute favorite tunic for a long long time. It's made from a heavy 8oz linen, and I really like how it feels. Because I wore it so heavily, it's got a lot of wear. The two biggest issues are a small rip on the front gore (I can patch this, if you ask me) and a tear under the left arm (again, ask me and I can patch this for you). - - - SOLDTUNIC 5: $15   I made this in a hurry right before my first Rag because I thought I was going to run out of garb (I was right!). It's made from a stiff blue cotton, has a full skirt, and the seams aren't finished. It's hardly been worn. - - - SOLDTUNIC 6: $15    small hole from hookah coal. This is another Tunisia tunic! I didn't get the fabric for this in the dark shop. I got it at a shop I found a little later, that was full of women who looked at me like I was a crossdresser when I purchased fabric (no other men in the store). It's some sort of linen like fabric. I feels like it might have cotton in it. It's a solid tunic, seams are finished, and it's still in good shape despite the amount of wear I got out of it. It does, however, have a small hole burned in the front from where someone knocked a hookah coal onto my lap (an incident that almost ended very painfully!). I can try to fix this hole if you'd like me to. - - - PENDINGCLOAK: $25      This cloak has gone on many adventures with me, from before I'd ever heard of Dagorhir. It's been to all of the LotR movies, gone camping, and been on long walks in the rain with dear friends. It took me a few years to decide to sell it, but it'd just rot in my closet, because I don't wear it anymore, and I'd rather it moved on and found someone else to make stories with. It's cotton upholstery fabric of a heavy weave, moderately warm, and waterproof until it gets soaked through (good in a drizzle, and some help in a downpour if you don't stay in the rain too long). The hood is a different fabric that's almost the same color, and it's lined with a black fabric. The fabric is a little faded in patches, which I think makes it look more like something a woodsman would wear - better camo, and it looks well used (as it is!). - - - That's everything! As I said above, if you like something but don't like the price, email me with an offer and we'll haggle. I don't have room to store this stuff, and I'd like to pass it on to someone who can use it. alricofdrentha at dagorhir dot com. |
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84
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General / Rules rules rules / Rules page updated to most recent rules
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on: May 26, 2011, 12:42:12 am
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I just updated the rules page. There were two changes. The first was the change made regarding the force necessary for a hit. Here is the old wording: 3.4.1 - Hits from hand-held weapons count when the weapon strikes solidly with noticeable force. NOTE: what constitutes a "solid strike" is necessarily subjective and thus relies on the honor of both the attacker and the person who is struck. And here is the new rule, per last Ragnarok's war council: 3.4.1 - A hit from a hand-held weapon counts when the weapon’s striking surface hits with sufficient force. Clarification: taps, grazing, and glancing shots do not count as sufficient force. The other change is to correct an omission. At Rag 23, Graymael proposed a revision of the rulebook to clarify a number of poor wordings. One of the rules he proposed was this: 4.10.2 - If a blow strikes a sheathed weapon (i.e., one that is attached/hanging from one's belt or over one's back) or any other worn object, including baggy clothing such as cloaks, the attack is considered to have hit the fighter. A weapon must be in a fighter's hand to intercept an attack. However, it was noted in War Council that this rule would make it possible to kill a fighting simply by hitting his garb, which was not right. Leonidas proposed a rewritten version of the rule, which was approved by War Council. Here's a quote from the minutes (link: http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=11718.0 ): Leonidas proposes addition of ‘If weapon would have continued through garb to person it constitutes a good hit’
Unanimous approval of proposed addition to garb hit rule.
Graymael calls the question for MOA additions, unanimous approval. This change was not, however, reflected in the MoA that was published on the website! Today, I published the correct, revised version of this rule. It was not immediately clear to me, however, how to incorporate Leonidas' amendment as quoted in the minutes into Graymael's wording, so I emailed him and requested the correct wording of the amended rule, which was this: 4.10.2 - Strikes ignore sheathed weapons (i.e., one that is attached/hanging from one's belt or over one's back) or any other worn object, including baggy clothing such as cloaks. If an attack would have made legal contact with a fighter had the object been absent, then it should be counted as a hit. A weapon must be in a fighter's hand to intercept an attack. I have now posted the revised copy of this rule on the website, as should have been done three years ago. |
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85
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / Anyone want a javelin? ($27, pickup at Ragnarok)
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on: May 24, 2011, 02:50:44 am
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I'm going to be making some javelins on commission for some Angaron folks, and I wanted to check here and see if anyone else would be interested in one (or several). Here's what they'll look like (with brown tape covering the blue foam):  The javelin in the picture weighs 13oz. I can guarantee that these javelins will be under 16oz. Here's how I build them: http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=18323.0I've been selling javelins for several years. The ones I sold to Sparta two years ago are still going strong with only minimal maintenance, despite weekly abuse. I'm going to start building these in a day or two. If you want one, call dibs here or shoot me an email ( alricofdrentha at dagorhir.com ). I'll be able to deliver these at Rag, though I'll need to be paid before as I'm not a registered merchant (paypal preferred). |
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86
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / Fixing up a new sword
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on: May 20, 2011, 01:15:32 am
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This is an in-progress project that I'm hoping to finish before Ragnarok. It's not a Dag sword, but I thought I'd share since we're all sword nerds. I got my first steel sword last week. It's a Hanwei Tinker Norman - cheap, but made with attention to the little details like distal taper and blade geometry that separate functional reproductions from cheap wall hangers. I'm looking forward to doing some cutting with it when I get out of the city. When it arrived, it was exactly what I had hoped it would be: a well designed blade and sturdy construction. But also kind of boring. So I decided to give it a makeover. Here's what it looks like from the manufacturer:  Not too shabby, but the pommel and guard were too shiny for my taste, and the black handle was boring (and the black chrome tanned leather wrap looked too much like a couch). The scabbard was really nice for something in this price range, but it was also a little boring, and it was made from fiberglass (covered in leather) and didn't fit the blade very well so that it rattled when the sword was shaken. The sword's blade looked machined (well, it is!). So I set to work! First I spent an evening in front of the tv polishing the blade with progressively finer sandpaper to take off the machined grind marks and make it look a little cleaner. I didn't want a mirror finish, so I stopped once I hit 1500 grit sandpaper. I didn't take all the grind marks out, but I did manage to make it look less like it came out of a factory, which was my goal. Then I attacked the pommel and guard with sandpaper, to try to replace the mirror finish with something more satin. I'm not convinced I took enough shiny off, yet - I might still try to dull it more once I get the new grip on it. The I ripped the grip off, added some strips of leather to make it fit my hand better, and cut out a piece of thin veg tanned leather to re wrap the handle. My first attempt didn't quite work; this picture of is attempt #2. I ran out of glue here, so finishing the handle is on hold until I can get to the store.  In the meanwhile, I was also working on a new scabbard to replace the poorly fitting fiberglass one that came with the sword. There's a cool book that discusses all the archaeological finds of Anglo-Saxon scabbards, Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD400-1100 by Ester A. Cameron. Using it as a reference, along with some helpful tutorials like this one, I chiseled out two pieces of 1/4" poplar to fit around my sword blade and glued them together.  ) It took a long time to get the fit right, but it wasn't very difficult. The bandage on my thumb is from when I forgot that chisels are as sharp as knives; I cut myself almost to the bone, reminding myself to be more careful but also about how quickly cuts from really sharp things can heal (3 days later, the wound was completely closed!). After I glued the two scabbard halves together I trimmed them to shape with a chisel and sandpaper.   Next up: glue linen to the scabbard to strengthen it. Then it'll be covered with leather. |
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87
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / New Anglo-Saxon shield
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on: May 13, 2011, 05:34:06 pm
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I tried my hand PD'ing a shield two years ago, and it turned out alright (until the core broke!). It was a lot of trouble, though, and I went back to cloth covers on the next two shields I made, because I wasn't sure it was worth the work to make it all fancy. My old PD'd shield in 2009; the core broke the next spring: - - - Ishmael's fantastic shield inspired me to do something cool again, however, so I started doing some research. I found that most shields from my period were lined with something - leather or linen - to help hold the boards together. I decided to line my shield in linen, on both the front and back. I researched boss styles and edging (rawhide edging seems to be more common than metal rims, by the Viking Age). My handle is held on with clinched nails (a period option; rivets were also sometimes used), but I failed to taper it like some of the originals, and it looks clunky as a result (I also didn't drill the nail holes large enough and split the handle - frustrating!). I might need to stain the handle as well - I think it looks a little unfinished. Once the shield was covered and the boss PD'd, I painted the boss with a metallic paint, painted the cover, and added fake leather edging. It's 28" diameter, and pretty heavy (heavier than I'm used to, with a 3/8" plywood core). Here it is!  (with a real sword for comparison)      |
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89
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Drop spindles! (for sale)
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on: May 05, 2011, 10:04:49 pm
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I have two drop spindles for sale, made by me with ceramic whorls (thrown on the wheel) and hardwood shafts. Each spindle has a hook carved in each end so they can be used as top or bottom whorl (my wife who spins says that they work better as bottom whorl they way they're set up now). My wife has been spinning with a similar spindle for the past year, and gave both of these her stamp of approval tonight. I did a bit of research before making these, and the whorl shapes are both appropriate for early period impressions. Ceramic did not appear to be the most common whorl material in the reports I read (there were more made from stone and bone), but ceramic whorls were found. Being ceramic they are, of course, breakable if they're dropped onto a hard floor. Here's a photo of the two spindles:  And the details for each: Spindle 1. Weight: 26g / 0.917oz (light-medium weight yarn) Whorl: This whorl is made from clay dug by my ceramics instructor in PA and processed by her students. It's been burnished and low-fired, and has a rich orange-brown color. Spindle 2. Weight: 34g / 1.19oz (good for spinning medium weight yarns) Whorl: made from the same PA clay as #2. My wife likes this one best. - - - In action!  I'm asking $15/ea + $5 s/h to the continental US, and I like paypal. PM or email (alric at drentha dot com) if interested. Thanks! |
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91
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Anybody want a Thor's hammer pendant? (SOLD)
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on: May 04, 2011, 03:38:17 am
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Ilsa and I are doing some spring cleaning, getting rid of extra odds and ends that are taking up space.
I found this bronze Thor's hammer pendant that I made last year (from bronze clay, a clay made of powdered bronze that, when fired, melts into solid bronze and looks like it was cast from a mold, only without the casting process).
It's 1 3/8" long. As you can see, it's rough work.
Anybody want it? Make me an offer, and if it's reasonable, it's yours. I'll ship it for free.
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92
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Anglo-Saxon pottery for sale (Cross-post from the AA)
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on: May 03, 2011, 07:32:13 pm
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( I'm cross-posting this from the Armour Archives, in case anyone here might be in the market for a bit of pottery for their Saxon or Viking characters: ) As part of our spring cleaning, I'm hoping to sell some of my Anglo-Saxon pottery to someone who can put it to better use than I am at present. Everything is made by me, and is based on sketches of 10/11th century Stamford Ware taken from J Young, A Corpus Of Anglo-Saxon And Medieval Pottery From Lincoln. Stamford Ware was widely traded throughout England, so this pottery is appropriate for anyone in England during the period with enough wealth to import some fine tableware. Everything is made from white stoneware and is microwave and dishwasher safe. Every piece is glazed on the inside with a modern foodsafe glaze to make them easier to wash. Everything is gently used, and any signs of wear are noted in the individual descriptions. - - - Stamford Ware Pitcher - $70 This is the nicest pitcher I've ever made. The walls are a thin, uniform thickness and it has the characteristic thumb-print decorated strips commonly seen on Stamford Ware. It was fired in a gas kiln and glazed on the outside with wood ashes, to give the appearance of a medieval wood firing. It's glazed on the inside with a foodsafe clear glaze. Capacity: 60oz (1.75L) Height: 6.375"    The inside of the pitcher:  A closeup of the texture (it's rough, like sandstone):  I chipped this pitcher when I took it out of the kiln. The chip is hardly noticeable (it blends in with the decoration around the rim), but I've circled it in red here:  - - - Stamford Ware Cups - $15/ea These cups are glazed on the inside and out with a foodsafe, lead-free glaze designed to imitate the lead glazes used in period. They were fired in a modern wood kiln, and all the color comes from the ashes that were burned into the glazes as they were fired. Capacity: 6-8oz (perfect for wine, mead, or a high ABV beer) Height: 3-3.25"  - - - Stamford Ware Bowls - $13/ea These bowls, like the cups above, are glazed on the inside and out with a foodsafe, lead-free glaze designed to imitate the lead glazes used in period. They were fired in a modern wood kiln, and all the color comes from the ashes that were burned into the glazes as they were fired.     Bowl 4 has a small cosmetic blemish (circled in red):  - - - And that's all! Shipping and handling (CONUS): Cups and bowls ship for $7 each. The pitcher ships for $15. Delivery at Rag is also an option. Thanks for looking! alricofdrentha at dagorhir.com |
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93
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / AUCTION: Really cool 1/2 gal jug
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on: April 30, 2011, 04:36:39 pm
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We found this bottle in the thrift store, and thought that it was too cool to not be in Dagorhir. It's an old 1.75L Bacardi rum bottle with a metal screw cap, in a leather carrying sling that looks really really cool. Ilsa and I don't have a need for this, but someone in Dagorhir should have it! To get it to the person who likes it most, we're gonna auction it off, starting at $5 (what we paid for it). We can ship it, or we can deliver it at Ragnarok. If you like it, post a bid here! $1 increments to keep it simple. If no one bites, we'll take it to the barbarian trading post! - - -       (note the popped rivet) |
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General / Website / How these boards are moderated
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on: March 28, 2011, 01:41:07 am
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The Dagorhir national boards have four rules, but their wording is sometimes vague and there has in the past been confusion about their interpretation and implementation. Unclear rules and a murkily defined rubric for their enforcement help no one. This post is my attempt to outline some of the principles by which the moderation team operates as we moderate the boards, with the two goals of transparency (because we don't want the enforcement of the rules to be a mystery) and of making it clearer to you, the members who keep this community alive, what types of posts will result in the moderators having to step in and issue a warning (or eventually, a ban). Here are the rules of the boards: 1) Do not post personal attacks and/or offensive messages
2) Do not post topics that reflect poorly on Dagorhir members or groups, or divisive topics disruptive to Dagorhir.
3) Do not post about non-Dagorhir organizations or non-Dagorhir events.
4) Do not post e-mail addresses, Myspace links, or any personal information in messages, profiles OR signature lines. Third parties have abused their privileges with misuse and spam. Chapter leaders and other responsible parties may post their @Dagorhir.com e-mail addresses to encourage communications with their Chapter. In practice, here is how the moderators apply these rules: 1) Personal attacks. Civil criticism and disagreement is good, it promotes healthy discussion and the sharing of ideas. The boards are not, however, the place to carry out vendettas, vigilantism, or aggressive trash talking (outside of a friendly or roleplay context). Threats, rude insults, and general dickishness can all earn a warning. Passive aggressive posting, posts which seem designed to intentionally piss off a specific member while not containing an open insult, can also earn a warning. Basically, don't be a jerk. When conversations start to devolve into personal attacks, we try to remind everyone to keep things civil. If particular individuals are behind the attacks, they will in most cases receive a warning from the moderators. This warning will raise their 'warning level,' typically by 10-20% (depending on the context and content of the posts for which they are being warned). Once a member's warning level reaches 60%, they will no longer be able to post. 2) Divisive topics. This is the 'wash your dirty laundry at home' rule. Some touchy issues need to be discussed openly on this forum (particularly those related to Ragnarok or other national events). Others, however, are best solved at home between the interested parties (such as disputes between members of the same realm). As moderators, we try to encourage people to discuss disagreements among themselves, because we do not feel that it is (in most cases) either appropriate or even very effective to try to resolve conflicts with several hundred outside parties watching and commenting from the sidelines. We will happily provide members with each other's email addresses to take these kinds of conversations off of the boards. We will encourage people to handle local disputes on their local message boards. Generally, we will not issue any warnings to people who bring up divisive topics, unless they repeatedly insist on airing dirty laundry here and refuse to try to resolve it in a more appropriate forum. Even then, we will probably just lock the divisive thread. Some topics become very contentious, devolving from helpful threads into pages of griping and personal attacks. When these topics become too out of control, or when they appear to offer no further chance of helpful discussion, one of the moderators might choose to lock them. Finally, persistent attempts to work around our efforts at moderation, such as circumventing the word filters (s.p.e.l.l.i.n.g. out curse words or names of other foam fight games), are generally frowned upon. Posters who make repeated efforts to work around the word filters or repost inappropriate content that has already been deleted by the moderators may receive a note or warning asking them to stop trying to find ways to fight the system. 3) Non-Dagorhir organizations or events. These are the Dagorhir boards, and discussion should focus on Dagorhir. It might sometimes be appropriate, in the course of discussing Dagorhir-related topics, to bring in analogies from other games (for example, using garb resources developed for the SCA, or a fighting video made by someone who plays another foam fighting game but which can help us learn techniques that work in Dagorhir fighting). The DBGA, the Dagorhir organization that pays for and hosts these boards, prefer that discussion remain focused on Dagorhir events. It is inappropriate to advertise events hosted by another foam fighting organization, or to discuss the great time you had playing another LARP. It is equally inappropriate to trash-talk other games. This rule has always been less strictly enforced when it comes to medievalist organizations that do not fight with foam weapons, like the SCA or various living history organizations, or organizations in other countries. It is still, however, generally inappropriate to start a thread discussing how much fun you had at (for example) an SCA event. Advertisements for games hosted by other medievalist organizations will, with few exceptions, be quietly deleted, and a message will be sent to the advertiser reminding them of this rule. Their warning level may be increased 15-20% per violation. Passing references to other games are ignored, but posts that shift the discussion from Dagorhir to a discussion of another organization (for example, going into a tangent about how much ____ sucks compared to Dagorhir) will earn you a comment from a moderator and potentially a warning, depending on the context and content of your post. Because of this rule, the name of some games that fight with foam weapons are starred out *****. If you post about another game and find that your post has some asterisks in it, that's a clue that you should be asking yourself if your post is helping the discussion about Dagorhir or getting off topic and starting to talk about the other games. 4) Personal contact information. Due to past abuses (threats, spam, and viruses sent during the political troubles ten years ago), email addresses that do not end in @dagorhir.com and other personal contact information should not be posted on the boards. Recently, it has become normal for people to let others know the names by which they are registered on Facebook; thus far, this has not been abused, and the moderator team has chosen to ignore it. If it continues to remain abuse free, this situation need not be changed. When a member posts a personal email address, we typically edit out the email in their post (replacing it with stars ***, brackets <>, or simply deleting it), and post a friendly reminder of the rule. In rare cases, the poster's warning level will be raised 5-10% (again, this depends on context and content, the nature of the rule violation). If you post your email because you were too careless to read the rules, you will probably not receive a warning, but your post will be edited. If you need to contact a member but cannot find a way to do this without violating the board rules, shoot me an email at my @dagorhir.com address (alricofdrentha at dagorhir.com) and I will get you their contact information. Alternatively, you can use the 'report to moderator' link (usually used to report abusive posts to the moderators' attention) at the bottom of the post of the member you wish to contact as a means of getting the moderators' attention and requesting that member's email address (which any of the moderators can provide). 5) Spam. This isn't technically a rule, but sometimes spam and thread derailment becomes such a problem in an otherwise useful thread that we have to delete the off topic posts. Similarly, members who actively derail a number of useful discussions with spam may receive a note from the moderators asking them to stop derailing useful discussions. In some cases, this note might be accompanied with an increased warning level of 10-20%, if the derailments are particularly harmful to useful conversations. * * * We do our best to enforce these rules consistently. Sometimes we miss things by forgetting to read a thread for several days or by skimming through responses too quickly to notice the violations. You can help us by reporting posts which you feel ought to be brought to our attention (but please do not report, for example, insignificant things like every single mention of another fighting organization's name). We also tend to moderate either the large, obvious rules violations (for example, a member who loses his temper and UNLEASHES ALL HIS @#*)&#%-ING WRATH ON SOMEONE ELSE) or the small but continuous violations (ie, a member who follows another around the boards, posting snide remarks after each of their posts). Single small incidents are often overlooked, because we neither want nor are able to police everything that everyone says. We want this to be a discussion board for conversation, not a police state. We believe that we are here to try to keep the peace, facilitate conversation, and remove rule breakers so that these boards can continue to be a useful source of information and a fun place to interact and relax with other Dagorhir from around the country. We are, by Blackhawk's analogy, like cops: we try to ticket people who go 90 in a 45 zone, and we might start giving out tickets if we see a bunch of people starting to become comfortable going 55 in a 45. We sometimes catch some of ourselves breaking the rules: moderators do get warnings too. And we're still a new team. All of us have only been doing this job for two years at most, and we're still learning how to work together as a team and how best to make these boards a useful, constructive, and also enjoyable place for everyone to hang out and converse. We do our best, but we're still learning, and every situation we have to deal with teaches us something about our own failings and the ways in which we can become better moderators in the future. * * * All this can be summed up in one simple sentence: Don't be a dick. If you are not a jerk to other members (you don't have to be nice or helpful; just don't be a jerk), and if you respect the rules of the forum (even if you disagree with some of them), you should not have any reason to worry about receiving a warning from the moderators. Happy posting, guys! |
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General / Dagorhir Discussion and Announcements / What do you guys do in real life?
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on: March 26, 2011, 02:06:27 am
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I saw one of these threads on another board, and realized that we haven't had one here for YEARs. So what do you guys do in real life?
I'm a graduate student studying medieval history and archaeology at the University of Florida. I'm also trying to be a part-time potter, when time allows.
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Gear / Garb & Equipment / Thoughtless garb SNAFUs
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on: March 21, 2011, 03:09:21 pm
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Sometimes we spend so much time talking about the handful of people who deliberately refuse to follow the garb rules (the bad garb conspiracy theory) that we overlook the majority of Dagorhirim who are wearing garb but, through an oversight, end up accidentally wearing something ugly and modern onto the field. I'll start with my own guilty confession.
I went to Ragnarok for the first time with enough good garb to stay legal for the whole week. It was nice garb, and while I looked new, I didn't look out of place. I got up in the morning, put on my linen tunic, my wool winingas, my leather belt, my unobtrusive modern shoes... and over top of it all, my modern knee pads with the logos shining out, ruining the whole thing. I've attached a photograph below (thanks to Tayn for taking cool photos!).
I'd put a lot of thought into my garb, but I never thought about covering those silly knee pads when I was wearing shorts instead of pants! I simply didn't think about it until I got home, saw the pictures, and realized what a spud I'd been.
* * *
I think we often end up wearing bad garb not because we don't care about it, but because we're having so much fun fighting that we forget about what we're wearing, because we're running late to an event and don't grab the right clothing, or because something happens at the event and we find ourselves unprepared.
So what are some of the ways in which we accidentally mess up good garb with a silly oversight? Some of the things I frequently notice are:
-unobtrusive earth-tone shoes with bright white socks, instead of unobtrusive earth-tone socks.
-fighters who get too hot in their garb and strip off a layer, exposing a tshirt beneath.
-fighters wearing awesome tunics with striped nylon workout pants underneath.
What is your embarrassing thoughtless garb SNAFU story? Perhaps by sharing the ways we've failed, and some other common thoughtless mistakes we see others making (please, no naming names or singling people out), we'll be able to help each other remember the little details when it comes time to go to our next event.
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Gear / Weapons & Armor / For Sale: Blue Axes, $30
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on: March 21, 2011, 01:00:21 am
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I made two blue axes this weekend for fun, and they need to find good homes. Here they are:  Both axes are built on 1/2" PVC stuffed with a dowel rod. The result is a stiff, heavier core that should hold up to plenty of abuse. The blades are constructed from 4lb foam, reinforced with leather on the sides and under the beard (for hooking shields), and padded with blue and marine foam. They hit with a surprising, though safe, punch. The handles are wrapped in leather. Specifications:Axe A
Length: 29" Weight: 19.3oz Balance: 16" from the pommel. Stabbing tip: No. Axe B
Length (measured to the tip of the blade): 30" Weight: 20.5oz Balance: 15" from the pommel. Stabbing tip: The tip of this axe's blade (not the part above the core, the tip of the striking surface) passed as a green on my back, though other weapon checkers might disagree. Guarantee: These should pass weapon check and not break (though all weapons will wear out through normal, hard use). If they don't pass weapon check or if they break in the first three months, contact me and I'll make it right. Price: $30 each + $10 s/h. Contact me at alricofdrentha at dagorhir.com if you like 'em. Some more photos:
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Show Topics - Alric
