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I would suggest to go with Garret on this. Blue swords definitely cover a ton of ground as far as foamsmithing goes. The use of DAP, measuring and making strips, building a weapon to last. So doing this step first will give you the advantage when building a red blade.

However, if we are going to jump into red, there's a good bit of foam tech to make one last. I'm no expert, like some others on the forum. For a good, lasting red, you'll want to use a progressive build, using denser layers of foam near the core and progressively softer as you work your way out toward the striking surface. A box layer of 4lb closed-cell foam at the core should drastically improve the life time of a weapon, according to many people. I haven't tried it out myself yet, but I have no doubt in it. From that box layer, you could build a sword as normal, using blue foam for the layers (I suppose anyone could correct me on this, seems like it'd work fine), and an outer layer of Gold's Gym yoga mat, seeing as 7ft-8ft weapon get some momentum in their swings...

I live over in Jacksonville thanks for the information.

Awesome stuff! My not-so-savy group and I are just south of Duval, if you care for it.

No, no, it was me being dumb. You're good.

I feel like such an ass now.

Well, this whole thing of Dark Souls and Dag reminded me of something...

Why not a replica Black Iron Greatshield, as well? =P

I think you have it backwards. The game got it from us.

Unless you're trolling. Then, bravo.

Sorry if that post was misunderstood. It a joke, I'm aware that it came from GtG, and not the game. I thought it was humorous, as it's another example of cross media that was evident in another picture. I apologize, I will learn from the error of my ways.

Well, this whole thing of Dark Souls and Dag reminded me of something...

Why not a replica Black Iron Greatshield, as well? =P

That's legit, to say the least. I'd love to get my hands on some nice armor from Demon's/Dark Soul, particularly Vinland's from Demon's Souls.

As far as Havel's Armor goes, it's be extremely intricate, as many others have said. A ton of layered and textured leather. Or you could make a mold and pour some cement for yourself, the armor is stone after all (Please don't). The shield would be rather intricate as well to make look nice, but I'm sure it's possible (as is the armor) with time patience, skill, and PD. Come to think of it, I think I may make a shield similar in shape, now. The Dragon Tooth would just be a large, curved club. Curved pvc should work well for that, though I doubt the durability of such a weapon would be very good. Assuming you're striking as in-game, the curve will work against you at that length.

I'd say my list would be
Moonsorrow
Turisas
Tyr
Falkenbach

Get to see Turisas and Arkona this spring I've seen Tyr and Moonsorrow a couple times each, too I have a hard time listening to Finntroll anymore after their show followed Moonsorrow's, and they totally bombed it in comparison. They sounded SO BAD. I was sad.

Moonsorrow. Never heard of them before, I'll forever remember that name now...

Heidevolk.  'nuf said.  I would particularly recommend vulgares magistrales.

Without a doubt. Vulgares Magistrales and Saksenland have to be some of the best fight tunes out there...

On top of those guys, Tyr gets me pretty pumped for some action.

Sweet, I'll go ahead and start that process when I can get some 4lb foam, which is hopefully soon. thanks, Arrakis, for the awesome details on the biscuit technique. I feel like an ass for not using it the first time, seeing as I knew of the technique and it's benefits, though didn't actually know how to go about making it. Settled for the plastic cap on a bandshoppe pole... Oh well, live and learn.

Gem of a sword you have (had) there, shame it broke.

As for the blue foam texture, I think some may be referring the black area above the crossguard, right before the blade. I'm dumb, may just be reflective black foam. Also might be referring the extremely light texturing that's in the paint in picture #2 on the crossguard (North-East prong, 2 'o clock, upper right, etc.), though that just looks like paint, to me. Oh, there's also the pommel, where you actually pointed out that you have blue foam showing =P.

I really like the overall look of it, especially the progression from guard to blade. Not a fan of cylindrical handles, but whatever floats your boat. Pommels pretty awesome, as well. I'm going to have to try something like that out, sometime...

Alright then, can do! I got too much time on my hand at the moment anyhow...

So whilst rebuilding the blade, are there any suggestions for preventing this in the future?

So, finally had one of my blades blow out on me. Worst part is is that is was probably my more quality weapons. Yeah, yeah, if it blew out it wasn't quality enough. Anyways, the damages are severe, I would assume.

So we all know what I'm talking about...
Red Sword, 65 inches in overall length. 20 or so inches of handle. Basic box construction on bandshoppe , 3 layers of blue, 1 layer of yoga (Yeah, hits fine, the counterweight brings it to be pretty soft). Counter-weighted an inch and a half above the handle.

The foam at the tip of the weapon, where most of these instances happen, from what I know, tore through 3 layers of blue on one side (only one striking surface was damaged) though it did NOT tear through the outer layer of yoga mat.

So my question is... is it possible to repair this? The only idea I see is filling the current opening to the core with goop, to better shape it, glue the foam back with Super 7 or dap, and bracing both sides with an additional layer of blue and add some strapping tape. Sounds like it'd be better just to remake the blade. Opinions?

Thanks.

I just finished up a PD job on a sword using metallic paints of the same brand, Folk Art, actually...

They are rather thin, though it does make it pretty easy to use other techniques on the surface, glazing and what not for effect. But as far the thin-ness goes, I think that the only solution would be to prime the black PD with white or another similar, though still bright color. Use the metallic coat just to add the shine, but not the entirety of the color.

I'm just getting into PD myself, so I can't really say I'm too credible.

I saw this around on the Tome of Faces somewhere... Pretty sick stuff! I love how deep that shaping is, or at-least how deep it looks. Keep it up.

So what you're saying is, if someone walked up to you, took a real sword, pressed hard against your stomach, and did a draw cut, it wouldn't slice you open?
Yes, a hit should be a hit, but draw cuts have their place in history, and have their place in dag.

Though, that thing doesn't seem like it could generate much more force than a kitten pawing at you on the best of days, so I guess I can see where you're coming from...

Both of those, basically. The only reason I don't like draw cuts is because many of our people take it as "Taps are ok", and thus many people hit way too lightly, and I get tired of taking taps when I'm constantly trying to put some force into a hit. My other concern with it is that draws wouldn't remove limbs, or I doubt they would most of the time. Bleh, getting a little off topic, I apologize.

edit: The most notable weird weapon is the circle thing.

This. The most ridiculous weapon I've ever seen in person. Every time I see this fielded, my brain suffers and my eyes bleed. Every single time I get hit with that piece of sh*t I get people pissed off. Why? Because it can't make a solid hit, it always slides. I always thought a hit had to be... you know, a hit? I could extend this rant and include the lame-ass scythe made by the same person, or even an attempt at... I'm going to quit typing now...

1st time a played dag, about same time last year? A group of my friends got together and we all started discussing the rules, learn along the way and what not. I was using a spear that passed well through the template, with hardly any haft padding, and a minimum round punch, which cut the hell out of my hand due to poor wood craftsmanship. I did manage to trip, and take a good overhead swung red-ax to the stomach. Couldn't wait till the next time.

In other words, new unit/chapter. Now we're primarily a bunch of highschool kids with little to no means of transportation, only one instance of outside interaction (Thank you, Imperial Atalantis), with very little garb among us (Yeah, I too am failing in that aspect). So, a failure, in general.

So, yeah. I was about to pump out 3 eight foot spears for our group, when I realized that the few people who are interested in using a spear already have a decent weapon... So instead I bought an 8 foot pole and another 5 foot pole. The 5 foot pole I'll be making a friend a red with... I've only made 2 in the past. So I have a very rudimentary knowledge of the red. Anyways, I wanted to make it semi-nice. I'm just posting it here so I can get some criticism, suggestions, and other various form of input. In other terms, would you want this sword? If not, what can I do in advance / in planning to make it a better product?

Construction: Core is a 5' B.S. pole. Eryndor Box (3 layers of blue, 1 layer of yoga), maybe go double box? Legal stab tip. 20", oblong handle (Strips of gorilla tape on side, washers/pennies on sides, wraped in copper wire, wrapped in leather). Counterweighted, balanced an inch or two above handle. A possible crossguard (bike tire segment, fill with goop, wrap/cap, possibly plasti-dipped?). Hexagonal pommel (Plasti-dipped, either a custom emblem or a generic cross).

Thanks.

It sounds somewhat iffy for swords for reasons already stated. However, I may try and slightly counterweight a spear to see if I can get it to feel more weightless than it already is...

Ok, definitely sufficient responses at this point in time. So I guess I'll be going with Arrakis's closed cell design now, seems pretty legit based on the comments. Not to mention, I live in Florida. Not like it ever gets cold down here... Anyways, thanks again, all.

It's much easier to pull off, and more likely to pass, if you aim for about 3.5" wide and use a mix of harbor freight floor mats or spiralled 1/16" craft foam for the base, blue+marine foam, and Poof football. It becomes dicey when you try to get under 3", in my experience at least. (The wider base being there more to support a greater thickness of foam on the tip than to distribute the force over a greater area.)

I have a 'nice' 8'6" poof spear that I tend to use now, I made the shorter one for purposes that I know use a sword and dagger in place of. I was just looking to make a lighter weight, more maneuverable long-spear. Truthfully, I was kinda toying with the idea when I read of a 7ft/7oz spear somewhere.

So how about this: instead of a 2.6" inch tip, what about a 3.25? Due to the wider striking surface, I could add more padding with a smaller chance of ti shearing. More distribution of force during impact would be improved, as you stated. Think that may work out well?

You need to have something wide, flat, and round on the tip of the pole. Circle of blue barrel plastic, heavy leather, something like that. It spreads the impact out, and is the key (IMO) to a marine foam spear that will pass happily, and one that passes grudgingly - and breaks down faster.

I entirely forgot that little bit, thanks! I'll go with some barrel plastic if I do end up making one.

You may have trouble getting that passed down here. I tried, and the checker at the first battle I went to with it wasn't comfortable letting it onto the field.

Also, I'm personally starting to really doubt this design. I messed somebody up pretty badly at Summer Slaughter with a marine foam spear that had an additional 1" of open cell added on top. I don't think he ever got an x-ray, but I either seriously bruised or cracked one of his ribs, and I didn't wind up as hard as I could for the shot (and he's a sturdy guy, not a nerd who never drinks his milk).

Damn, that is really unfortunate. I'd really like to make a low-profile spear, but I only really have the resources to make a marine foam. I guess I'll just wait and save up some foams until I can make one that isn't too harmful.

They seem to pass the back-test fairly well, but I too have had bad experiences with them -- an unlucky shot from a closed-cell spear fractured my thumb at O's this summer, and I had to wear a brace for about a month.

That is most unfortunate as well. That's what I was thinking partially from the start: back tests hit fine but the small surface area can do some serious damage...

Well, thanks for the input!

Alrighty, another topic. Recently I just sold my band shoppe, poof-ball short-spear for a fair sum. With said cash, I'll be making yet another spear. This time, a spear at 8' without the use of a poof ball. I was looking into some designs and I thought a Marine Foam spear would be my best bet at making a relatively low profile spear. So, here's the stuff...

Core: 8' Bandshoppe/Fiberglass Rod
Striking Surface: 3 or 4 Layers of 3/8" yoga mat, 1 layer of 1/2" uni-foam. Form a 2.6" circle with those. Reinforce these layers with a layer or 2 of 3mm EVA and strapping tape.
Courtesy Padding: 1 layer of spiral blue.

With that stated, what would you do differently? I have some concerns with the head shearing, and I would like to know if my negativity proves true. Would this spear design pass your hit test? I wouldn't mind form of input, criticism, suggestions in general: I'm trying to improve my foam-smithing and what not...

Thanks!

a. The butt is padded as safely as a spear tip.

b. The butt is NEVER thought of as a spear tip.

I did this with my 8 foot glaive. It's real nice for breaking amatuer-ish (Who am I kidding?) cross/scissor guards of Flo fighters as well. Even better for feinting then simply rotating your waist to smack someone in the arm/ribs....

From what I've seen the shape of the shield is really just a tradeoff for attack and defense capabilities. Yes, I am referring to the shapes of shields and not the type. From what I've observed, and assume, the fuller the shield the less shots, or shallower shots, you can throw.

Example, using a large, rectangular shield makes it a bit more tedious to leg people opposed to tall, though a rather pointed kite-shield (I'm referring to the upside-tear/pear shape) allows more room to maneuver your weapon hand with a bit more ease. You can throw a continue your shots further to your shield side, rather than having many of them interrupted by the edge of your shield.

With that said, rectangular, in my opinion, is much more of a defensive style of fighting, while your kites are slightly more offensive. Round shields have more coverage around your torso region, allowing you to throw so many more leg shots though it would require more movement of the shield to horizontal shots to your shield side.

However, I'm sure all shield are the same in an experts hand. Do whatever you think you would like and take note of what you liked about a particular shield. What did it allow you to do more fluently? Did it even make a difference? I believe the shape of a shield can be overlooked as long you practice. However, size is another thing altogether...

Yyyeeeeaaaahhhhh....

We had a Flo fighter in our group with a strange obssesion (Maybe even a sexual attraction) to a weapon reffered to as a valdris. In turn, he had two constructed for him under the impression that he would be able to utilize both ends at full force. As one would assume, it doesn't work.

To get a significant hit with one end, it would be like swinging an overly counter-weighted sword. you can't get enough force behind it. However, they do seem to be nice as a defensive weapon... only against melee however. I suppose you can make any technique semi-effective, it just takes time and practice.

My other opinion on the matter: I guess these weapons are extremely effective if you wave them around as a fan dancer would and hope that your movements are mesmerizing enough to charm a person into letting them hit you, then being overly kind and not calling 'light'.

Yeah... Id' love to stab someone with that new dagger of yours...

thats wat red weapons are for toy destro the shild now u cnt use it to kill people also head shots dnt count so even if u did hit the in the head nun would happen

Know what? Go for it. Just do it. Punch a guy in the face with a shield. Punch the hell out of everyone. I mean everyone. Your brother, your sister, your mother, grandparents, neighbors, your boss, coworkers. THERE MUST BE BLOOD!

Also, nothing in game would happen if you hit a guy in the face. However, you may just happen to, I don't know, break his nose? Hell, even knock him out if it isn't padded? Safety is first.

y cnt u use a shild as a weapon in history sheilds had bladed edges and where used to slash people they also had spikes used to stab people

Because the rules say we can't. That would make shields much too versatile. There's also a lot of rules violations...
1. Safety. PLAYABILITY. Realism. Playability comes before realism. Having a bladed shield turns 85% of Dag fighters into Flo fighters. It's already the most effective style out there, according to many, why give it more of an edge? (See what I did there?)
2. No punch weapons. I can't find a way that hitting with the edge of a shield wouldn't be a punch. Guess what? Punches are a no-no in this game.

if your chapter allows it, go for it. Make sure you pad the hell out of those shield edges! I edged a guy in the face before, not a pretty sight... Also, when you go to official events, remember your little shield edge punches will do nothing for you.

To answer the OP, because it makes it hit too hard. I know people have already said this before, but another person to reinforce that statement can't hurt. Duct tape, from my knowledge, keeps the foam from compressing normally because it's holding much the surface rather tightly. If you can't cover a weapon, then learn. I'm in this process myself, being a beginner foamsmith. However, if there is absolutely no way (I.e.: You couldn't produce a low quality cover even if held at gun point) then leave the foam visible so you may have someone else cover it a later date. f you don't care too much about how the long the weapon is going to last, or your perfectly fine in investing time and money into a new one, then fight with it without a cover of any sort IF your chapter allows it.

The views and opinions expressed in this response are solely the individual's, not Dagorhir's.

That kid looks so light I could trip them with my pinky toe.  Just saying.

Yes, I can be tripped with anything. Not only are my arms noodly, the entirety of my body is resemblent of a noodle. =P I can't gain weight!

the haft padding looks like duct tape, the blade though could be a cloth, its not a clear enough shot of the blade imo, but its what ive got. their you can clearly see the opponent about to go down. caused by pulling up on her/his back of the legs. flipping like. unless it was made strongly, it would a ripped the blade off...
but by the picture... we can see its on their ill check in with him sometime soon and see how its holding up.

Sched 80 core with a reinforced joint. The haft padding AND the blade are covered in duct tape, though it doesn't hurt. However, half the hits he makes with it don't even make a solid impact. Matter of fact, I get people yelling at me for not taking a good portion of the hits because they SLIDE most of the time, opposed to a solid impact.

I'm just saying you're way more talented then that and the rest of your kit is great. Why bring the overall look down when you can do much better? Don't you strive for excellence?

You can stand there with a straight face and say that these boot covers don't look excellent, and that they bring down the overall look of my armored garb?

Just because something's not historical doesn't mean it can't be excellent. "Fantasy" doesn't mean "lazy" - at least not for my unit.

I was always wondering where the fantasy part of Dag went on the boards...

Anyways, for the sabatons. I really like the idea of covering up the mundane quality of combat boots. I don't really have much room to speak here, we're still getting our unit garbed in the mean time. Personally I'm not a big fan of the shape used. Guess I'd have to see it with the rest of your armour to judge correctly. But as before, I have to room to speak. Overall, nice job. I haven't seen any other pics of these (not to say they never existed), so I have a nice first impression of another piece of armor to consider when I get around to leatherworking.

Agreed, best fight scene there. Just the intro to fight made it for me. You know, the "I want to fight 10 people." statement. 

So it appears my first assumption was close to correct, thanks!

Dat's a Choppa'.

I'll just go with that.

Nah, I was indeed referring to the actual sword. But I have a few joke weapons as is, so why not make another? I'll even make it the colors of Narnia.

Gambeson

Sorry, I'm one of the most ignorant people when it comes to this stuff.

Don't worry, I'll make a green only duster and embellish the handle with fluff.

Hey! Just watched an awesome movie today, Ip Man. If you haven't seen it, watch it. Awesome plot, some of the best fight scenes I've seen, too. Anyways, I got some inspiration for a sword I'll be making soon. Before you barf in my face, I feel the sword is actually doable.



Can anyone give me an exact name for this style of sword? To me it just looks like a rather large saex w/ a guard...

Thanks!

I would assume it to be armor in it's current state... making it a perfect choice for layering steel under some areas. I don't see why it would be an issue, just make ure there's enough studs to make people think it's armor. Look at a Wisby CoP for example.

If he's stickin' with garb, then make the studs seem more ornate. Much smaller, not as much depth as the current one, further spaced, etc.. I'd love to see this as either, that is one badass surcoat.

Who doesn't know how to say Whisper Monsoon?

Heh, I saw Monsoon for quite awhile, but eventually noticed it was Moon-son.

Woah? It's not Monsoon? *Checks name* Learn something new every day. My bad Whisper.

You can really put some stank in a shot if you hold it by the pommel and flick your wrist at the last second. Also if you can make the crossguard sturdy enough it works as a weird buckler that does damage

You mean like a main-gauche? Just realized that I can make a second attempt at that, this time using a more realistic size.

I'm going to start making a minimum blue of sorts rather soon. I was thinking about using sand as my weight adder, though I may make it really tip heavy so it's possible to throw some heavier hits without the need of too much pommel as handle.

The search option is pretty nice, there's quite a few threads on the subject. Here's one of many.

http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=4686.0

I can sense a fair bit of rhino-hiding in the future because 6" blades, from my experience, don't really make a definite contact or sound opposed swords.

You do realize that "this weapon doesn't hit very hard or well" doesn't mean it will cause rhinohiding, right?  It means that it will cause a lot of people to complain about people rhinohiding, though.


CALL LIGHT ON LIGHT CRAP.

/PSA

Entirely agree with you on that one.

Awesome, now I can go ahead and tote a dagger that can slash. Though I really did enjoy having green only daggers and tiny concealable weapons... I guess the weight sets them apart.

Awesome revision, however. I'm liking the elimination of the slashing/bashing categories, as they were both blues anyways. One of my only concerns: I can sense a fair bit of rhino-hiding in the future because 6" blades, from my experience, don't really make a definite contact or sound opposed swords. Not like it's up for debate or anything

COrrect me if I'm wrong, but I thought spears/daggers could only flex 45.

Alrighty then! Seems like that's all I need to be able to do this:

Carving/sanding to shape and smoothe
Heat treating to smoothe any other parts out
Fun foam for a great finish/Plastidip surface

Now to find out where I can get some Fun-Foam!

Thanks for the help guys!

Hobby Lobby has really nice, large sheets of 2mm and 3mm. Michaels has large sheets of 2mm and small sheets of 6mm. I'm sure Wal-Mart has some in their craft section as well, though likely just multi-colored packs. Which in all actuality doesn't matter, they're going to end up black either way.

Try putting some fun foam on it. Works like a charm. Definitely worked on my shield. Made it look very nice.

This works perfectly, as well. Just get some sheets of fun foam and DAp them down wherever. ALso gives you a smooth finish.

I'm really liking the first link up there.

I got a pretty round shield by cutting out a circular core the layering foam around the edges. Standard technique, but it gets rid of the visible imperfections in a circle. You could also do the really tedious task of using an exacto blade to cut blue foam for the face of a shield, I did that as well.

As for the boss, you should be fine with that technique. Just layer up up, give it a general shape by carving, then sand it to what you want. If you're using blue foam, I would heat treat it. I wasn't aware of the technique when I made my shield, but you're just taking an iron on med heat, placing some wax paper over your soon to be treated area, and closing the cells by applying heat. I'd suggest looking it up instead of taking my word for it, though.

Ozark Trail Camping Pad/Mat from Walmart. Approx 6 dollars. But our place just went on sale, 4.96 a mat! So happy...