Gear > Weapons & Armor
Weapon Materials Guide
Twolf:
Weapon Materials Guide
This post is a brief summary on weapons building materials for new and intermediate weapons builders. One of the most common questions we receive on this forum is how do you build a sword. There are many tutorials available both on this site and on the web. However, reading through them you will see some of them recommend using slightly different materials and different means to create your weapon, and this post is targeted at explaining the options so you can decide for yourself which one to follow.
A note to those considering commissioning a weapon: There is a well known site out there that sells weapons for Live Action Role Playing groups. Notice that they do not mention Dagorhir in their advertisements. This is because they do not always pass at our events. Please keep this in mind before considering them.
Core
* PVC pipe - Found in any home repair or plumbing store. Usually measured by INSIDE Diameter. 1/2" is good for up to about a 40" weapon. 3/4" is recommended above that up to about 6'. 1" or more is recommended for polearms.
+ Pros: Inexpensive and easily available. Easy to cut with a saw or PVC cutters. Can also be heated and bent to make curved weapons.
- Cons: Thicker and bulkier than other materials available. Average durability, though durability is compromised when bent
* Fiberglass Rods (solid) - Available as electric fence posts, though it may have other names. Can be purchased through Best Dag Stuff, McMaster-Carr, Kencove, Max-Gain, and Tractor Supply Company. A single 3/8" can be used for a weapon size of up to about 36". 1/2" or more is recommend for larger weapons.
+ Pros: Almost indestructible compared to other materials. Almost as inexpensive as PVC Pipe, but much thinner.
- Cons: Hazardous to cut, must use a saw. Gloves and masks are strongly recommended. Cannot be bent to shape. More difficult to get.
* Bandshoppe Poles (Hollow Fiberglass) - Named for the online store that sells marching band supplies. Typically used for spears and other polearms. Comes in lengths between 5'-8'. Available at Bandshoppe, Smith Walbridge, and Woodwind & Brasswind.
+ Pros: Much thinner than PVC for polearm weapons. Best way to get a polearm core.
- Cons: Far more expensive than most other materials for a weapon. Expensive to ship. Stores charge a premium for small orders.
* Graphite - Found in Golf supply stores.
+ Pros: Lighter and faster than fiberglass. Thinner and lighter than anything else.
- Cons: More expensive if purchased new. Does not come in many lengths. Possibly the least durable core of all except for wood cores
* Carbon Fiber - Modern wonder material that has a high strength-to-weight ratio. Available in both tubes and rods through Goodwinds.
+ Pros: Lighter and more rigid than fiberglass rods.
- Cons: Much more expensive than fiberglass.
* Other Cores:
Kite Spar - similar properties to Bandshoppe poles but thinner and available in smaller sizes.
Square Fiberglass rods - similar properties to regular fiberglass rods, but are easier to build onto for Swords and Axes.
Wood Staves, Rattan, Bamboo, etc. - Generally not recommended unless that is all you have available. Must be wrapped in tape first.
Foam
Note: We are always looking for better foams and better suppliers. Let us know if you know anything not on this list
* Blue Camping Foam (Walmart Ozark Trail brand) - Available at Walmart. Majority of Dagorhir weapons are made from this foam. Believed to be a form of non-cross linked polyethylene foam. Density is about 2.4lb/ft3.
+ Pros: Widely available. Extremely inexpensive.
- Cons: Breaks down easily. Not as durable as other foams.
* Minicell (including Volara) - Both refer to Cross-Linked Polyethylene foam that has very fine cells. Volara is a popular brand name for the foam, but is by no means the only one. The cell structure cannot be readily seen when cut (unlike Blue Camping Foam or Marine Foam). This foam is considered superior to Blue camping foam, though arguably not as good as EVA below. It is available through Alric, Foam For You, Foam by Mail
+ Pros: More durable than Blue Camping Foam. Usually cheaper than EVA.
- Cons: More difficult to get.
* EVA foam - Sometimes known by the brandname EVAlite, it is a foam made from Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate that is much more durable than camping foam. It is currently the gold standard by which other foams are compared to. It comes in many different properties, but the properties listed in McMaster-Carr are the ones we recommend (2 lbs/ft3). It is available from McMaster-Carr, A.M. Foam and possibly FoamOrder.com
+ Pros: Much more durable than Blue Camping Foam.
- Cons: Difficult to get and very expensive in comparison.
* Pipe Insulation - Found in hardware and plumbing stores, this foam should not be used as part of a striking surface, as it compresses too quickly.
+ Pros: Almost no work required. Very cheap and easy to get.
- Cons: Breaks down faster than Blue Camping Foam. Should not be used on it's own without additional foam.
* Other Foams:
4 lb. foam - A foam that is more durable than typical 2 lb/ft3 foams listed above. It is sometimes (though not always) referring to an EVA foam. It recommended to only use this as a base layer for weapons, but doing so may increse weapon longevity.
Marine Foam (aka Ensolite) - A closed cell rubber foam that is growing in popularity for stabbing tips. Used in Guntar's Stabbing tip design. Available through Alric and many other suppliers.
Polyethylene Foam - This is basically the same as Blue Camping Foam, but beware that there are MANY properties to foam, so any given Polyethylene foam may or may not work for a Dagorhir weapon.
Neoprene - A foam with possibly similar characteristics as 4 lb. foam.
Fun/Pool Noodles - Found where pool toys are sold, breaks down faster than Blue Camping Foam. Quality can vary wildly, but some are stiffer and better than Pipe Insulation. Not recommended for beginners.
Unicell - An open cell Polyurethane foam from McMaster that was used to create stabbing tips. Not discussed as much as before, use part number 85735K66.
Grey Computer packing foam a.k.a Charcoal Ester- A very thick open cell gray foam. Possibly the same as Unicell.
Canal Rubber foam - A source for above mentioned foam.
Adhesives
All are available at home repair stores
* Contact Cement (DAP WeldWood) - Contact cement generally used for laminates. General recommended adhesive for building weapons. Read instructions carefully, as it requires the glue to be dry before use. Use foam brushes, extra pieces of foam or putty knives to apply. Use Mineral Spirits to clean up any messes. Nonflammable and Gel versions do not work as well as the original formula.
+ Pros: Generally considered best all purpose adhesive for Dagorhir.
- Cons: Requires 10 minutes or more to be ready. Has a strong odor and must be used outdoors or in a very well ventilated area FAR from an open flame. Does not bind to duct tape very well.
* 3M 77 Spray Glue - An alternative to DAP in a convenient spray can. Use turpentine to clean.
+ Pros: Provides a superior bond over dap when bonding open cell foam. Although it has the similar warnings as DAP, it is not as odorous and can be used indoors. No accessories needed. Works faster than DAP.
- Cons: Not as good as DAP on closed cell to closed cell bonds. More expensive
* Double-Sided Carpet Tape (Fiberglass Indoor/Outdoor) - Manufactured by Duck tapes, they come in 1.5" and 1.88" widths. Can be tricky to cut
+ Pros: Can be used without regard to ventilation. Recovers its stickiness if lost due to cold weather.
- Cons: Not as good adhesion compared to other methods, especially in very cold or very hot weather.
* Other Adhesives:
3M 90 - similar to 3M 77 but "stringier"
3M 74 - similar to 3M 77, but possibly superior to it. Harder to get locally.
Double Sided Duct Tape - Possible superior alternative to double-sided carpet tape.
Duct Tape - Recommended for everything that is not on a striking surface.
Gorilla Tape - Superior to normal Duct tape for holding, but more expensive.
Gaffers Tape - Available in lighting supply stores, similar to duct tape but does not leave as much of a residue when removed. Recommended for holding covers onto weapons.
Athletic tape/Hockey Tape - A "breathable tape", recommended for securing striking surfaces.
Strapping tape - A cellophane tape with string running along it. Sometimes used as an alternative to athletic/hockey tape.
Tyvek Tape - An untearable tape that can reduce or prevent tears blade surfaces. Use with caution as misuse can cause weapon to fail.
Weapon Decoration
* Plasti Dip - A rubber coating for weapons that hides seams, giving weapons a molded appearance. Comes in both paint and spray forms. Paint varieties are recommended over sprays for weapons. Available at k1cra.com, The Quilter's Husband, as well as some local hardware stores.
+ Pros: Simple to apply and very durable. Conforms to shape of the underlying weapon, so 3D effects can be achieved.
- Cons: Conforms to texture of underlying weapon. Will dissolve uncured adhesive bonds. Requires 20-30 minutes per coat. Can be punctured by sharp objects.
* Fun Foam - A thin foam (2mm-6mm) that is easily cut with a razor blade or scalpel. Sometimes goes by other names like Crazy Foam or Foamies. Used for creating 3D effects and designs on weapons. When Plasti Dip is applied, Fun Foam will appear to be part of the weapon as a solid piece. Available at Wal-Mart, Joanne's, and Michael's in small sheets. Larger sheets are available online.
+ Pros: Very easy to shape and apply. Cheap.
- Cons: Requires a very sharp blade to cut evenly.
* Spray Paint - Flexible varieties can be used to paint over Plasti Dipped weapons. Available just about everywhere. Recommended brands include Krylon and Rustoleum. Ensure the type chosen is usable on plastic. A recommended test is to apply on some Plasti Dipped scrap foam and checking for increased rigidity.
+ Pros: Super Easy to use. Cheap. Can cover a large area in a short time.
- Cons: Not very precise. Must be 18 in some places to purchase it. Overwhelming variety.
* Acrylic Paint - Brush or spray-on paint used to paint details over Plasti Dipped weapons. Many different types are available, but Liquitex Soft Body Acrylic is strongly recommended for weapons. If using another variety, make sure it has similar properties. A good acrylic paint will be flexible, self leveling, and should provide excellent coverage. Available at any art supply store (Michael's, some Joann's, Dick Blick Art Supply).
+ Pros: Very precise. Amazing detail possible. Water Soluble when wet, chemically inert when dry. Easy to use in a basic fashion.
- Cons: Very expensive. Permanent if spilled on cloth. Takes good painting skills to use well.
Arrow Shafts
* Wood - Adequate. Must be wrapped in tape to protect combatants from splinters
* Aluminum - Adequate. Fairly inexpensive compared to fiberglass or carbon. Get bent easily.
* Fiberglass - Good. Moderately priced. Must be wrapped in tape to protect combatants against splinters except if using red Safety Glass shafts
* Carbon - Good. A bit more expensive. Lightweight. See Oznog's post below.
Tools
* Utility Knife -A retractable blade, available at any hardware store. Keep replacement blades handy, as they dull quickly when cutting foam.
* Straight-edge Ruler - Any ruler with a hard edge that you can run the utility knife along without damage.
* Screwdriver - Great for opening a cans of DAP or changing utility knife blades.
* Hacksaw - Used for sawing through pipes, fiberglass rods and arrows, and graphite golf club shafts. When cutting fiberglass, cover the area you're cutting with tape first.
* PVC Cutter - A PVC pipe cutter that has ratcheting jaws and cuts pipes straight and clean. Do not attempt to use it for fiberglass or graphite
* Utility Knife Blades - Extra blades are always good as foam quickly dulls knives. Use without the blade-holder to shave away edges and points, or cut through larger thicknesses of foam.
* Electric Knife - This is usually purchased more as gifts for others than anything else. It's a knife with a reciprocating edge. It can cut through foam like butter.
Twolf:
I know that this is not a complete list or a complete FAQ. I only have so much knowledge as one person. Help me out with this if you can.
Oberon of Lyonesse:
this is a great start just edit your post as people fill in any gaps
Antonis:
Mayhaps add some of my pictures?
Twolf:
I really considered it, but I think that pictures may actually detract from the actual reading of it. There are plenty of pictures around for all of these things if you need them, and most people really don't.
Still, I may link to your FAQ directly for pictures of items, unless there's a good how-to that shows pictures of everything.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page