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[Wynar]

New toys for my new Slaaneshi cult.

[Arthensa Arrava Arad]

If you value those, I would only use those for choregraphed battles.
Real wear and tear on something that looks like latex.

Really nice, BTW.

[Wynar]

nope not latex  plastidip  and you can beat the beejesus out of it

[Blackhawk the Apollyon]

That is some beautiful stuff. You must show it to me when we meet in person. Or better yet, kill me with one, then show it to me.

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

Is there an online tutorial on how to make latex or plastdip weapons for Dagorhir? I'd love to fool around with the stuff I just don't know where to start.

I'll make a set for Khorne then come show you my god is better than your god in a good old beat down.

[Kendall Cinvent]

Those are some pretty toys, if they are as functional as you say, the world just became a slightly cooler place.

[Gra'm]

Wow..simply amazing. Plastidip? never heard of it, does it hit harder? Sounds like it would but being as I have no idea what it is I wouldn't know. Anyway what I would like to know is how you did all that engraving and detail? How long did it take to make each?

[Wynar]

yep it really is durable.  it's the same stuff used for tool handles and such.

But it is not for striking surfaces.  makes for great pommels and hafts and any other bit that is not a striking edge.

[Gronk da Fleshcarver]

Damn sexy

[Alric]

Is there an online tutorial on how to make latex or plastdip weapons for Dagorhir? I'd love to fool around with the stuff I just don't know where to start.

I'll make a set for Khorne then come show you my god is better than your god in a good old beat down.

There's the one on the how to page: www.dagorhir.com/gear/

[Squire Lizard]

I assume you painted it on, but what are the materials under the plastidip? How hard is it? How bad would it hurt a hand if hit? That's my problem with this kind of thing so far because once you get to the point of smoothness that is desired its starting to feel like hard plastic more than foam.

[Morlock]

if you take a can of the spray plasti dip and apply one coat of clear/white and then use oil based paints to paint on details it comes out fine.

Normally, I'd just spray the pommel and hilt with a coat or two, then take a sponge/brush and use the right color for the effect I wanted. (wood/metal)

After details are done I'd wrap the handle in small gauge rope & left over leather.

Add a shiny or dull cover and your all set.

[Iohn deMar]

Wow. That is epic, Sir. You win the internet.

[Wynar]

I assume you painted it on, but what are the materials under the plastidip? How hard is it? How bad would it hurt a hand if hit? That's my problem with this kind of thing so far because once you get to the point of smoothness that is desired its starting to feel like hard plastic more than foam.

Under the plastidip is nothing more than evalite and dap.  It is very flexible.  It feels the same as foam wrapped in duct or electrical tape.  I've got my javelins covered in it too and they have gotten knocked off course and started tumbling and smacked fighters in the face.  Other than the looks there is no safety difference between it and tape. Well, not entirely true, with the weight savings my javs weigh in at a hefty 12oz, so for those i'd say it they safety of the weapons has been improved.

One thing I can not say about it is how it responds to cold. Down here in Georgia we don't get much in the way of cold temps.  I don't know what if it would stiffen in freezing temps or not.

But in hot temps, we get that here, it does not leave a sticky slimy residue on your hands, tunic, car seats like tape does.

[Arthensa Arrava Arad]

Is there an online tutorial on how to make latex or plastdip weapons for Dagorhir? I'd love to fool around with the stuff I just don't know where to start.

I'll make a set for Khorne then come show you my god is better than your god in a good old beat down.

I found a vid on youtube a while back:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yB6lxX4UyQQ

[Huntsman]

So wait, our weapons no longer need fabric covers?

[Sir Mirelle of Narnia]

So wait, our weapons no longer need fabric covers?

Look at the pictures people, both of those weapons have fabric covers. There is only Plasti Dip on the non-striking surfaces.

Those look wonderful, great job Wynar.

[Athron]

very, very nice, wynar

[Kotaro]

My head just exploded from the weaponized level of win.

Did you carve the decorations? They looks awful pretty.

[Grand High Glorious Beast]

Those are some pretty toys, if they are as functional as you say, the world just became a slightly cooler place.

They are!  I have held and used Wynar's weapons.  (Not these in particular).  They are some of the best weapons I have ever used.  His Javelins are freaking amazing.  I can't wait to see these new pieces up close.

Skieth, Wynar is going to give a class to some of the High Spires vets.  It is up to us to share the technology with the rest of the chapter and perhaps the world.  So imagine an Athron written tutorial that explains how to make these kinds of weapons.  I just came a little.

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

So imagine an Athron written tutorial that explains how to make these kinds of weapons.  I just came a little.

So did I friend....so did I. *tear* I've always been curious about latex weapons and stuff ever since people started posting about them a few years back. Thanks for all the responses, I'll definitely look and read all the resources sometime today when I get a chance.

[Blackhawk the Apollyon]

I think both Magnuseses are working on a tutorial.

[angus "beef" black]

WOW wynar i cant wait to see you at practice with em. They look awesome.

[Grand High Glorious Beast]

I think both Magnuseses are working on a tutorial.

Well, Wynar is not just good at adding the pretty parts.  His weapons are just plain amazing.  They hit good, they look good, they have long lasting effective stabbing tips, hi javies are the best I have used.  He has plenty to offer besides plastidip.

[Lota]

no to die to one of those would be pretty awesome =O

they're so pretty I almost can't look away. Amazing job.

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

Kurai and I were talking about Lizard's plastidip swords this morning. I guess you use paint thinner and plastidip together to get it to the right thickness. It should be at a  consistency of model paint then applied.

Also when adding color what type of paint should you use?
Also when should the paint be applied to the plastidip?

Sorry to sound dumb just something I've always been curious about over the years and now intrigued by this thread. I was told adding the plastidip to weapons decreases the upkeep and maintenance needed for your weapons.

[Squire Lizard]

Think of it like painting Citadel Miniatures. Start with a base color that compliments the rest of your colors and start building highlights from there. I was amazed at the similarities between the two. I think I read that in Magnus o' Narnia's Tut somewhere, good read. I want to see what Magnus o' Taurendor has.
I don't mix it into the Plastidip, I paint over it and seal it. Only real difference between Latex and PD.
 
And yes Skeith, you do want to thin it down to the consistency of model paint, maybe a tad thicker. It takes a few layers, maybe 3 or 4. Not much, you should still see a bit of blue or JUST starting to not see it at all
I have never applied "too much" and had it end up being too stiff, or had the weapons I applied it too get too stiff in the cold. Remember, this is ONLY as a tape alternative for the striking area of your weapons when all others short of duct tape fail. Or you could stop hitting so hard... It can also make a blade that could last 5+ years of extremely heavy and rough combat.

Plastidip in the cold isn't TOO bad, or when muddy or wet. All four of my weapons that were checked at Mud Gates passed and I was asking people all weekend about how they felt and if they were too stiff. All four of them had this coating and two of them are almost a year old...
If you guys only knew the tests and hell we put these two through...

I really like these things Seeing this, I am ordering some Plastazote today because I know with better quality foam I will get much better looking results, blue foam is meh at best for it's worthless shaping qualities.
I am glad to hear so many vets are behind this idea, as it will only give the more artistic of us the ability to make some absolutly freaking AMAZING gear. I would really like to see these Javies, are there any pics of them Wynar?

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

Thanks Lizard that helps a lot, I really appreciate it. I was actually gonna use my Citadel Mini paint for comparison. The biggest issue I have is the tips of my swords blowing out on the sides usually so maybe the plastidip will help seal it.

I also totally agree with the idea of using plastidip as an art media in Dagorhir. As far as sculpting quality of foam goes, I think EVA would be great to sculpt with. It reminds me of eraser blocks I've made large stamps with. I've also have seen people carve some crazy weapons out of it.

Also post dem javies you heard the man! I think we all would like to check them out.

[Oznog88]

Actually you can add pigments to clear PlastiDip liquid and effectively make a paint out of it.  But you generally want actual pigments not paint, a paint is usually like 5%-15% pigment and the rest is the binder agent.  You want PD to be the binder agent.  The paint's binder agent will probably not be very compatible with PD, basically mixing polymers that won't link to each other weakens the product a lot.  The craft store sells some metallic powder pigments BTW.

You want to get the PlastiDip thinner to adjust consistency.  The PD "dip" cans are really thick.  That's toluene and VM naptha and it's a bit different than lacquer thinner.  You can get that from Quilter's Husband:
http://www.quiltershusband.com/catalog/product.aspx?productID=748

Don't get the larger quart.  It is in a paint can which is retarded, hard to pour and easy to spill.

And you can get the clear liquid there too.  Get the 22oz can because it's resealable, the 14.5oz cans are not and keeping them from drying out is a constant problem.  The thinner can redissolve dried material if it's not dried "too bad". 

[Kensmen Tumbark the Barbarian]

This would be awesome for the horn thread too!

[Kendall Cinvent]

I have seen sprayable plastidip online, can anyone confirm its value? It seems like it wouls be pretty easy to get the thickness yo want with it.

[Lhurgoyf]

This would be awesome for the horn thread too!

I thought the exact same thing.

Will we be seeing a horned werewolf storming the field anytime soon?

[Arthensa Arrava Arad]

This would be awesome for the horn thread too!

I thought the exact same thing.

Will we be seeing a horned werewolf storming the field anytime soon?

Probably, Lhugomanahana.....Lhuganfana........Guy with a neat hard to pronounce name.

[Lhurgoyf]

That's what half the people in my chapter said the first time I showed up "Okay, dude, how do you pronounce your name?"

"Lhurgoyf"

"Lord Goyf?"

"No, Lhurgoyf"

[Arthensa Arrava Arad]

It's a neat name, but it's so hard to pronouciate.  I shall call you
"Lhurgy"  I'm not picking on you, jsut giving you a nickname.(Doesn't have to be yours, if you don't want it)

[Wynar]

Okee dokee,

This here is how it's done.

1. Bring bourbon and women.

2. Build your weapon.  Use as little tape as you can.  For my gear they all have ONE piece of gaffer's tape, and that's the one holding the cover on.

3. Wait.  The solvents in the plastidip 100% WILL reactivate the adhesives in dap, barge, 3m74, and tape.  The joints in your weapons will spit open right before your very eyes.  I've had it happen.  Remember if these sorts of solvents take longer to cure in drier climates.

4.  Wait some more.  If you think to yourself, "that's prolly been long enough." You are wrong.

5.  Plan ahead.  Once you crack open a can of the plastidip, it will dry out in a closed can in about 2 weeks.  I always try to do weapons in assembly line batches.

6.  DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA.  Chemical solvents will destroy your brain. ...On second thought, that kind of extensive nervous system trauma makes glue huffers uncoordinated and slow to respond.  Since I'll be crossing swords with some of you in the future, go ahead and try this in the most confined room in your home. Ya know, like the broom closet.  And remember, deep breaths.  (this is called humor for all of you who are new at this sport, seriously these chemicals can kill you)

7.  Slather that goop on there.  It has the consistency of pancake batter.  Brush it on with some cheap chip brushes.  It self levels and thins when it dries.  I suppose you could manage to glop it on too thick.  Just dont put it on so heavy it's dripping.

8.  Wait 15-20 minutes ans slather on another coat.  I find that 4 coats is Goldilocks.  I apply more around the joint of the handle and pommel.  This gives that particularly weak area some fantastic stiffness.

9.  Leave the damn things alone for 24 hours.  I mean let it cure.

10. Slap a cover on it and commence to beatin'.

And that's how I spent my summer vacation.

The End

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

Epic, one more thing....I for got to ask about weight. How much weight does it add to a normal blue sword. (I assume the more you use the heavier it is)

[Wynar]

If your weapons are light to start with you will have to ADD weight.
That stuff is how I was able to make 12oz javelins.

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

wtf 0_o"
I'm confused, so the Plastidip reduces weight?
How much weight we talking here?

[Wynar]

Give the people what they want, and if what you want is pics of my huckin' spears, well who am I to say no.
Oh, and my mistake, my scale was not zeroed, they weigh in at a hefty 13oz.

[Kendall Cinvent]

I think he ment that they will not manage to give you enough extra weight if you are already light.

edit
those are some nice javies, what kind of distance can you get with them? Do you find wind to be more of a problem with them so light?

[Wynar]

No. 
If pd is used in place of duct/hockey/gaffer tape in say pommel and crossguard construction, the weight will be substantially reduced.

[Wynar]

Thankew,

They fly very straight and get close to dag arrow range.
You can reliably aim for and hit limbs with them at 30 feet.
And they take a beating.  At High Spires practice, damn near the only time they are not in the air is when Atharon is lecturing ;P or we're breaking for water.

[Lhurgoyf]

It's a neat name, but it's so hard to pronouciate.  I shall call you
"Lhurgy"  I'm not picking on you, jsut giving you a nickname.(Doesn't have to be yours, if you don't want it)

I guess people will need something to say as they lie dying on the field 

[Arthensa Arrava Arad]

You are funny, Lhurgy, I like you.  You got spunk.  I hope someday, that you rise in the ranks and become one of the greatest.  I hope they call your name "LHURGY!! CURSE YOU!!!!!" When they die.  Then you will kill them again.  And then I'll laugh at the sidelines.

[Skeith, the Forsaken]

Javis are epic sir great work. Also good to know, yeah i would have factored in the tape to PD ratio. I was just wondering how much weight it would add to a normal already made sword but I understand what you mean. Hopefully I can experiment with it myself soon.

[Kaim O' Byrne]

Maybe i missed it, i apologize in advance if i did, but how did you get the designs on there? Is it also just plastidip?

[Oznog88]

I have seen sprayable plastidip online, can anyone confirm its value? It seems like it wouls be pretty easy to get the thickness yo want with it.

PD spray is fine.  It'll take a lot of coats.  You cannot make your own color, obviously.  It is actually more expensive because the product weight includes solvent and propellant.  There is much more solvent in the spray.

Actually, there is some logic to using it to avoid dissolving glue by making a thin coat with spray that will dry quickly.  But, there is more solvent in the spray so that may not play out as intended.

Plastidip is NOT as strong as tape.  It has a tensile strength of 3740psi, which is strong but the layer is usually thin.   The real problem is it doesn't have a REALLY strong bond to polyethylene foam most of the time and can peel off, once it's separated it's easily damaged.  A stronger, stiffer foam substrate like MC2900 keeps that from happening.

Oddly enough, I've never quite been able to nail down just what PlastiDip is.  It is NOT silicone or polyurethane.  Silicone won't dissolve in any solvent after it dries but PlastiDip does.  I saw it mentioned as a silicone/styrene copolymer, but also styrene/ethylene/butylene/styrene copolymer which I think is actually the case.

[Squire Lizard]

Wow, those javies are REALLy nice man! I can't wait to get home and look into this more. Oh and Oznog, if you could hit me up on the Colorado Dag boards I would be a happy camper. Link is in my profile. PLEASE DO

[Lhurgoyf]

I plan on using this once I have assembled enough weapons to use an entire can.  It would make for some really nice tooling on the hammer I'm making.