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Author Topic: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness The Whole Story  (Read 62044 times)

Wynar

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Before I begin on the tutorial I need to address some things.


First and foremost, HAVE FUN!  Don't take anything too seriously.  Laugh, it'll do you good.

This is a finishing technique.  This is not a complete construction method.  This technique is entirely focused on the finished appearance of an already safe and legal weapon.
If you can't yet build a good safe Dagorhir weapon, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY, yet. 
Get together with some of your local vets and learn how to build reliable weapons.   

DO NOT POST QUESTIONS LIKE THESE

I am sure many of you will pose a question like, "I can't get/afford Y, if I use X instead of Y can I still make Z?"
The answer from me will always be "I have no f***ing idea.  I used Y and it worked.  If you use X, who the f*** knows what will happen. 
It might work the same, or your Great Uncle Louie might get eaten by a giant crab."

If you really want to know, experiment on your own.  If it works or if it does not work talk about it.
And for God's sake, if any of your relatives are devoured by giant mutated sea creatures, always remember to have fresh batteries in that camera!

There will also, no doubt, be questions along these lines, "Wynar all you seem to make are axes, but I don't want an axe I want to make a sword.
Will this work on a sword?"
If something like this even enters your brain you need to get up and find someone who doesn't need to wear a hockey helmet all of the time and is still allowed to touch the baby and have them explain it to you.



Many out there will shudder at the cost of some of the materials, especially EVAlite.
You want a suck weapon, buy suck materials. 
You want a nice weapon, buy nice materials.
It's one thing to be poor, and belive me I understand being broke, but nobody likes a cheapskate.
You don't have the money all at once, SAVE.  You got a few friends, everybody chip in and buy then build as...I dunno...
a unit?

Yes I know all about spellczek, and I take sikc delight in cranking the tractors of net trolls that point out errors
in the spelling and grammar of those they disagree with.

Some of you might not find the coarse brand of comedy I spew up amusing.  To those of you out there I can only suggest that getting
information out of me is a lot like dumpster diving, you might very well find a Picasso, but you had to pick through a bunch of used condoms and fish heads to get to it.

Now on to what you are here for...


You will need to begin this oredeal:
brilliant ideas
At least one safe, legal Dagorhir weapon (hint: if you can't do this yet, you might want to practice a bit before tackling this)
Rulers/straight edges/french curves/compasses
paper and pencils
razor sharp knives appropriately sized to the project
leather punches
fun foam of varying thicknesses
DAP
disposable chip brushes
black plastidip
paint for these I am using Liquitex Med viscosity acrylics
paint brushes also appropriately sized for the job
clear plastidip nope it ain't too good, how 'bout a quality spray varnish like Krylon cryastal clear or thinned down "through the roof" roof sealer
cloth for the cover
material for the handle in this case I'm using black garment cowhide



Sketch out all of the decorative fiddly bits you want to stick on your weapon.
Draw them on to the foam.  I have been able to track down 2mm, 3mm, and 6mm funfoam.
This allows a great deal of flexability when working the depth of the designs.
This particular axe I was going for a kinda heraldric knighty good guy thingie.  Mostly 'cause Athron was fussin' that good guys never have any sweet looking gear.
I used 3mm for the critter head and 2mm for everything else.



Cut out all of the little bits and pieces.  Reece's Pieces are awesome.  On most of the cuts I held the knife at an angle giving a nice bevel to the designs.



On this weapon there are multiple layers of decoration and I assembled as a first layer and a second layer
Brush a thin coat of dap over the entire weapon excluding the striking surfaces.  Rtuing to do precision gluing with this doesn't work too well.
It is easy to miss a spot.  Brush a thin layer of dap on the design cut outs.  FOLLOW THE DAMN DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN.  Let both surfaces get about as tacky as a postit note.
Also if the dap feels kinda cold, it ain't ready.
Once it is ready, slap on the first layer of stuff.






Do the same thing with the second and subsequent layers. You don't need to slop dap over the entire thing again.  You can be a little more precise with the glue.






I find that the "rivets" and "nail heads" REALLY dress these things up.  To do these guys, paint spots of dap onto the weapon where the rivets will be.
Take a scrap of funfoam and give it a thin coat of dap on one side.  let them dry as you have with the rest.
Working with the dapped side UP press by hand the leather punch into the funfoam.  The cut out circle usually stays in the punch tube.  Shank it with a hobby knife.
Carefully place it on a glue spot and press it down.







Now it's time to move onto putting on covers.
Cut out a piece of cloth the lenght and width of the striking surface + 2-3 inches.



Center it on the striking surface and pin it straight on to the foam.



Pull the corners tight and pin them together.



Trim off the excessand you'll have a rectangle with the corners knocked off.




Sew 'em up.  I typically run three lines of stitching over it to keep it from blowing out.
Put the sewn up cover on the blade INSIDE OUT.



Slap a coat of dap about 3/4" wide allong the edge of the cover.  Be extra careful not to go to heavy with the dap at this point as it can bleed through the fabric and make it all icky looking.



CAREFULLY pull of the cover and set it aside to let it dry.  Then put a coat of dap on the weapon where the edge of the cover will be.
Let em both dry to that postit note tackyness and put the cover on right side out.
Do this part really slow and careful like.  If you pull your cover down too tight, when it comes to slappin' on the dip the whole cover can come loose if the dap bond is weakened enough.



Now for the hardest part...
Put it aside for at least two days to let the dap set up.


So I let the DAP cure for a couple of days.
Remember that patience is hugely important in working with plastidip.
The solvents in the PD will cause the dap seams to weaken and split open. 
If you find that you need to bang out a couple of weapons before the next battle, and that next battle is tomorrow, do not use this method.

Before I go on with the how to, I need to give a couple of tips to working with pd.
   
Pd dries very quickly.

First to save money, those chip brushes cost all of $.80 but if you end up wasting ten of them building a couple of weapons, that's eight bucks in the trashcan.
In between coats of pd, I put the still wet brush in a plastic sandwich bag and wrap it on as tight as I can.
This keeps the brush useable for the length of the project.  I also do the same when applying dap.



Second pd is pretty thick stuff, and if you put it on overthickly it can clump up and obscure some of the cool detail work.
To avoid this I slop the dip on and then using the tip of the brush I will quickly run the brush in four directions over the dip; up, down, right, and left.
That seems to pretty well keep it from pooling in low areas and around nail heads.
This must be done quickly though, 'cause like I said it dries fast and if you over brush it too much you will leave brushstrokes all over the thing.

From here on, and I only want to write this once:

LET THE PLASTIDIP DRY TO TOUCH-DRY BETWEEN EACH COAT

What is touch dry?  If you touch it, you dont get a gloppy mess all over your hand.

Use some masking tape to protect the cloth cover and make a nice clean line between the pd and the cover. 
Put the edge of the tape about where the dap holding the cover on ends. 
That's about 1/2" to 3/4" away from the edge of the cover.



Start the applying the pd first around the high stress areas of the weapon.
Around the joint between the pommel and the handle, in the joint between an axe head and shaft.
This way plastidip can be used to add a bit of structural stability to these areas by increasing the pd thickness.
Typically on my weapons I will apply anywhere from 8 to 12 coats of pd to these areas.



Begin with a 3/4" band around the pommel joint.



Then go on to a 1 1/2" band.



Keep layering and increasing the area of coverage until you have coated about two thirds of the pommel/underside of axe blade.




Once you have done the high stress areas, slap a coat over the whole thing.
It will look awful and uneven when it is wet, especially on the first coat.
Don't worry, it self levels.




As soon as you are done applying the 1st coat, very carefully remove the tape from the cover.  Pulling the tape off when the pd is wet is one hell of a lot easier than once it has dried.  Trust me I know.



Apply a total of 3-4 complete coats of plastidip.



If you are not going to paint and clear dip it, give it one more coat.

The painting is pretty straight forward.
Slap paint on weapon.

Wood grain worked fantasticly on that mace I did earlier, so the notion of the wood grain peeking out of the haft decoration seemed cool.
I decided to put the Bavarian blue and white behind the lion head 'cause I think Bavaria is a cool place.
For the decorative "metal" work, old Colt bone charcoal blueing and gold complemented the Bavarian lion thingo pretty ok.










Finish it with one coat of clear pd clear spray varnish.

Wrap up the handle any way you want.  I chose to use some rough out pig lining leather.





Then you are all done!
And you have a fist full of awesome.
This technique probably ends up taking 4-5times longer to build and finish a weapon than does conventional methods.  But what you end up with is something truly amazing looking.

I almost forgot.

CAUTION!

Heat does really bad things to plastidip covered weapons.
Leaving them in a hot car or sitting in direct sunlight will ruin them.
http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php?topic=14715.0

« Last Edit: June 01, 2010, 01:18:21 pm by Wynar »
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Aivan Hale

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2009, 07:35:00 pm »
You would post this once I was done with my sword.... This should be put in the How-To section on the main page. Thanks a bunch.

Read it, really good at explaining details and importance of good materials and ideas.

Also, so you are using EVAlite to carve the weapons? I know of McMaster and the foambuyers.com place, do you use these two venders?
« Last Edit: July 17, 2009, 07:40:18 pm by Aivan Hale »
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Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2009, 07:47:18 pm »
Can't help the timing   :D

Brutus started selling incredibly well priced EVAlite the day after I had ordered some from McMaster, at twice the price.

All you can do is laugh!
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2009, 07:59:21 pm »
This helps a lot actually. Thanks for posting Wynar, hope to beat you with a new PD sword soon. :)
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Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2009, 08:03:18 pm »
A dust up?!?!  Heck yeah!  As soon as my Doc says it's ok.

Right now I am actually doing the last step in part 1.  Letting the glue set up.
I'll be finishing the weapon and the tutorial tomorrow.
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Halbrust

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2009, 08:16:01 pm »
What's it like at The Chamber? I have to know!

Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2009, 08:17:27 pm »
Slap and tickle.  It was our goth/fetish club for years.

It is sadly closed.
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Commissar Dudley S. Thunder, Master of Earth-Realm.

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2009, 09:05:29 pm »
I had something funny to say regarding used dumpster and new condoms, but that train of thought derailed.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2009, 09:29:00 pm by Jack Link's Premiun Cuts »
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Squire Lizard

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2009, 09:17:58 pm »
Very nice man! Wish I could see the pics, stupid phone doesn't show pics >.< Will have to wait till I am home. Have you ever used the craft foam from Hobby Lobby or is that the same stuff? I like how very similar our styles are and thedry humor makes the tut. Is it 11 yet? Argh
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Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2009, 09:21:29 pm »
I think I got it at Hobby Lobby, let me check.
...
Yup, still smells like musty old ladies and everything.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2009, 10:49:30 pm »
Glad to see this is up! I normally only wait 1 day for the DAP to set (and have had success with 18 hours before) but to each their own.

I'm at the exact same step in the process, but I am making a shield with it! And once again, your weapons make me far happier than anything made of foam should.

You could always just point out that all of these techniques apply to any weapon, such as swords and the like. I'll be ordering some stuff for a new weapon not too long from now myself, and it is going to be a type of sword, using many of these techniques. Although I can't wait to see the way you paint these!

Also, while it won't look as nice, if you just want to cover something with PD and only have it be one color without fancy designs (or two colors with simple designs like mine), Krylon and Rustoleum metallic paints that are designed for use with plastic work very well. And blue painter's masking tape works very well too. Also, for those who don't have access to leather punches, pre-cut foam shapes work very well too.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2009, 10:51:03 pm by Falkrix »
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2009, 10:58:31 pm »
How much additional weight does your PD design use?

Could you give an estimate for like a four inch tall section, and as wide around a blue sword?
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Alagos of Ivormere

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2009, 12:25:20 am »
aaaaand bookmarking. Chances are I won't make PD weapons for quite awhile, but you never know.

And btw, a very aptly named thread, and super mega awesome also applies to the axe even in its unfinished state.
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Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2009, 12:34:23 am »
I find that the pd weapons turn out lighter rather than heavier.

If anything I've had to find ways to add weight.

Guess I'll have to break out the scale and figure out how much weight it adds.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2009, 11:04:57 am »
I find that the pd weapons turn out lighter rather than heavier.

Yeah, it's significantly lighter than any tape or cloth cover, even with the extra foam bits. I usually have to weight stuff to get it up there into legal territory as well.
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Kneef

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #15 on: July 18, 2009, 11:25:55 am »
Wynar, your stuff is sweeeeeet (I love those streamlined little javelins with the fletchings) but I fear it requires a degree of artistry that I sadly lack. :(
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #16 on: July 18, 2009, 01:13:27 pm »
I just discovered something about the use of PD that I did not know about previously. DO NOT USE SUPER 77 ON SEAMS NEAR PD!

The decorative facing of my shield was attached with Super 77 because I had run out of DAP.  After waiting a day, I went to apply the dip. The fumes from the dip slowly ate away at the Super 77 layer, allowing the edges of the decorative facing to peel up, and weakening the rest of the bond, requiring me to take the facing off and now I will need to get some more DAP to attach it. I will also need to reapply the arm padding and my rune on the back of the shield as well.

So stick with DAP on all PD weapons in the future. Of course, this could just be a freak occurrence or I applied the 77 wrong, but I don't think so.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #17 on: July 18, 2009, 01:24:11 pm »
I used 77 on my glaive.... Like has been said before the PD reactivates what ever glue you use and the 77 seems to need longer to set and cure to not weaken. I ran into the same thing as you, well sort of lol. Don't be discouraged man. Oh, and DAP gel = WORTHLESS. Just wanted to put that out there
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Wynar

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #18 on: July 18, 2009, 02:53:18 pm »
Wynar, your stuff is sweeeeeet (I love those streamlined little javelins with the fletchings) but I fear it requires a degree of artistry that I sadly lack. :(

Gotta re work those javs to comply with the new rules :(
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #19 on: July 18, 2009, 03:43:35 pm »
I used 77 on my glaive.... Like has been said before the PD reactivates what ever glue you use and the 77 seems to need longer to set and cure to not weaken. I ran into the same thing as you, well sort of lol. Don't be discouraged man. Oh, and DAP gel = WORTHLESS. Just wanted to put that out there

I'm not too discouraged. It just means an extra 2 weeks until I finish the shield, considering I am going on vacation for the next week and a half and I can't take my materials with me on the plane. Ah well.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2009, 04:05:45 pm »
Awesome as a whole, but I wonder how to repair the weapon. If it breaks, it looks like you have to skin the weapon to fix.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #21 on: July 18, 2009, 05:22:20 pm »
How do you, personally, use EVA Lite? I've heard people put it on top of the blue foam, and it increases it's lifetime. I've also heard people who make weapons entirely of EVA Lite say they're steadier and last longer. As well as rumors of EVA Lite falling apart quickly too.

What's your personal opinion on it?
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #22 on: July 18, 2009, 05:42:31 pm »
Plasti-Dip requires specific thinner.  There is an official "Plasti Dip Thinner" which contains toluene and VM&P naptha.  This will thin cans which have been open too long and start to dry out or if you just want a thinner, paint-like consistency.  That, and the actual plasti-dip, can be bought online at:
http://www.quiltershusband.com/
Be sure you don't get the gallon "paint can", it's impractical to open, close, and pour.  Stick with the quarts. 

PD tall dip cans dry out rapidly once opened, even if the plastic cap is put back on.  PD recommends putting tinfoil over the top before putting on the plastic cap to reduce the drying rate.  I think saran wrap works well too, maybe better.  Even still, cans rarely last more than a few weeks unless you keep adding thinner every week.  Thinner has little effect once the material has hardened solid in the can, but stirs in easily as long as it's still liquid.

Plasti-dip in the larger "paint cans"  should have a much lower drying rate.

Blushing
Sometimes PD develops a whitish "blush" on the surface during drying.  It cannot be dusted or polished off.  I believe this is due to high humidity during drying.

High temperature drying may cause pinholes as the solvent vapor boils out too quickly.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2009, 08:19:21 pm by Oznog88 »
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #23 on: July 18, 2009, 10:16:23 pm »
I might also recommend a sprayed-on base coat with the PDI spray.  The thinner coat should dry very quickly, presenting little risk to glued seams, but create a barrier against future layers' solvents soaking into the glue. 

Plus it'll better cover detail without "filling it in".  Like a 90 deg inside corner, a wiped-on layer will tend to fill that in but a spray, not so much.  On the other hand, the thicker material on an inside corner would be a "gusset"  which might add needed support.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #24 on: July 18, 2009, 10:20:28 pm »
Sorry to hear that Falkrix :( Just means we have to wait longer to see it.
I am going to get the thinner and clear PD from that site, can't wait.  And you bring up a valid point there Oznog, the thicker "gussets" as you called them helped keep the skull rune on my glaive and gave it a more weathered look almost, ya know? The spray base is a good idea, what is this PDI spray, the dip spray?
Looking at the pics, I really like that foam, THAT is EVA? I have seen a different type of EVA then, now I am confused. That stuff looks nice and solid, drool...  I am emailing you tonight.

OOH, is that a Tzeentchian Axe design I see there on that note pad??!??!? Looks mighty spiffy, Surprised I was the first to see it lol.
Next part PREASE!!!
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Oznog88

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #25 on: July 18, 2009, 10:23:03 pm »
The company is called Plasti Dip International... so it's sometimes referred to as PDI dip/spray.  Although the term "dip" is not really appropriate for the spray product, since it's not dipped.  Polymer's the same, though.
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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #26 on: July 19, 2009, 11:48:30 pm »
Wynar, your stuff is sweeeeeet (I love those streamlined little javelins with the fletchings) but I fear it requires a degree of artistry that I sadly lack. :(

Gotta re work those javs to comply with the new rules :(

Ignore the new rules.  They don't go in till Monday of next Rag and by then those Javs will have given you plenty of use.

Falkrix

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Re: Wynar's Super Mega Awesome Tutorial of Plastidip Awsomeness part 1
« Reply #27 on: July 20, 2009, 10:59:59 am »
Looking at the pics, I really like that foam, THAT is EVA? I have seen a different type of EVA then, now I am confused. That stuff looks nice and solid, drool...  I am emailing you tonight.

Yeah, that is the actual EVA brand from McMaster, not a crosslinked PE that is almost exactly the same which you can get from foambymail.
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Stellaria

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Yay, whole tutorial is up now!  This makes me very happy....and also very sad that I have to do a ton of sewing before I can build stuff.
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Angus Daergh MacKay

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Wynar laddie, that is one beeyoootiful axe there laddie, I would be proud to take a hit from such a lovely work of art...
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Think about this...The Scottish Highlanders were a very poor people, no armor to speak of, only the most basic of weapons, and still the English, whom had one of the most powerful armies of the time, considered them to be a huge threat!  Hmmmmm

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? How can EVA (which is ethylvinalacetate I believe) also be made from a crosslinked (type of foam extrution?) polyethylene? Now I am really confused... Anywhoo, awesome tut Wynar.
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Outhro

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I might just strip a weapon and give it maintenance to use as base for such project. I have a paranoia of making a new weapon and not knowing if it is too hard, something is loose, etc.
It just looks too fancy to use. I would use this more for ceremonial, competition prize, or as a gift.

It is an amazing looking weapon
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Squire Lizard

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Why though? These things are just as durable as a normal weapon. They hold up real well to the abuse we put on them, at least mine have.
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Why though? These things are just as durable as a normal weapon. They hold up real well to the abuse we put on them, at least mine have.

By how tough I imagine PD is, it's probably even more durable than regular cloth. And as an added bonus, any incidental contact will have to wear through the decorative foam before getting to the "meat" of the weapon.
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You are right, it would be easier to do this than make a cover for a flanged mace that would take uber-stitching to cover all cloth.
plus the one piece cover for the head of a beaded ax is hell to sew.
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Alric

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Wynar, how long do you let the paint dry before applying the clear PD?
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Wynar

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It just looks too fancy to use. I would use this more for ceremonial, competition prize, or as a gift.

It is an amazing looking weapon

I might make 'em pretty, but first and foremost I make 'em for fighting.  Like Lizard said the pd can take some abuse.

Wynar, how long do you let the paint dry before applying the clear PD?

Usually about a day.  I'll end up finishing the painting a few hours after I've told myself I need to get some sleep 'cause I've got to get up ass early to do that job thing.  The next day is when the clear dip is applied.  I could imagine if it was applied too soon it could bleed the colors.
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Wynar

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You are right, it would be easier to do this than make a cover for a flanged mace that would take uber-stitching to cover all cloth.
plus the one piece cover for the head of a beaded ax is hell to sew.

yup



it sure is  ;)
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It just looks too fancy to use. I would use this more for ceremonial, competition prize, or as a gift.

I beat the hell out of my zweihander. At two different points during Rag is was the subject of a tug-of-war, involving me and a grappler, and I truly believe that the thick PD I put on the quillions are what kept them from being tugged off. It looks nice, AND is tougher than ****. Seriously, that stuff is insanely tough. A sharp knife can cut right through it, but who uses a sharp knife on the Dag field.
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Morlock

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Is it ok for me to blame you for making me have to clean my screen?  If it wasn't for such arousing photos...  ;D  Coming soon (next week or so) my spear built using methods shown here.
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Is it ok for me to blame you for making me have to clean my screen?  If it wasn't for such arousing photos...  ;D  Coming soon (next week or so) my spear built using methods shown here.

Should be making some polearms myself coming up soon.  Gonna be time expensive.
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Morlock

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Sad part is, minus the pommel, the spear is done and could be used in battle.  I just want to PD it :P
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Wynar

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Sad part is, minus the pommel, the spear is done and could be used in battle.  I just want to PD it :P

Well heck, do you need it right away?
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Maybe, but I can imagine that the ones you make are going to be sweet. There is just so much more room for prettiness on a pole weapon. I plan on doing a spear for my Chaos God's set dedicated to Tzeentch. If I can ever get the damn bandshoppe pole.  Can't wait to see Rowenheart's axe that I saw in Wynar's notepad :p
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Sad part is, minus the pommel, the spear is done and could be used in battle.  I just want to PD it :P

Well heck, do you need it right away?
Not till the 8th of august.  So I got time.
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  Can't wait to see Rowenheart's axe that I saw in Wynar's notepad :p

Isn't temptation grand?

 ;)
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This makes me sad.. Not only do I not have the money for the the PD, paints, etc.. but I can't even afford the better foam!

Being young and broke sucks!
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Prioritize.
Work hard.
Save.

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I'd put the Plasti Dip over the cheaper bluefoam. That stuff is still good enough to be the main foam. Like Wynar said, it's priorities. EDIT: corrected the spelling of Wynar's name. Oops
« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 12:49:16 pm by stylgar »
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*starts getting materials* NOW IMA MAKE A REALLY PRETTY WEAPON! Great work btw i like your choppa on the other post the best i think....but thats just cause im an orc...its in my blood.
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