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[Stellaria]

I'm going to leave this here, so I don't lose it.
http://www.medieval-baltic.us/skjold.html
And possibly post a photo of one, once I get confirmation and permission from Shamsi. I saw this article a long time ago, and couldn't picture the hood as anything but funny-looking.....and then I saw this GORGEOUS picture and the design rung a bell. Trust me, it looks SOCOOL.

Eta: Permission obtained!


Add other patterns that you all like to use, please?

[Lady Krystal]

This is the one I've been meaning to play around with before winter hits.

http://www.www.moirandalls.com/cowl.htm

[Lyte]

A friend from the SCA pointed me to this site, really good looking stuff and she has a hood section based on the Skjoldehamn find. It looks like the pic you posted.

Skjoldehamn Hoods

[Alric]

http://www.medieval-baltic.us/skjold.html

I love this link (it's worth the 5 minutes it takes to read). The MA thesis that it links to (in Norwegian, but great pictures with English captions; full English translation on the way) is even better: http://www.ceilingpress.com/Resources/Nye%20tanker%20om%20Skjoldehamnfunnet.pdf .

But as a heads up - I made a reproduction of the hood using the exact measurements of the original, and either the original lady had a very small head, or she was buried in a hood that didn't fit her very well. It was tiny!

[Rojji]

I forget who told me about the idea, but I made two okay mantle/hoods out of pillowcases. Food for thought to beginners.

[Siguric]

I've been meaning to make one with this pattern. Seems simple enough.

http://www.reddawn.net/costume/hood.htm

[Cailean Somerley]

But as a heads up - I made a reproduction of the hood using the exact measurements of the original, and either the original lady had a very small head, or she was buried in a hood that didn't fit her very well. It was tiny!

When I made this hood for Thorli I just converted the measurements to Imperial and added four inches to all the measurements. He's a big guy and he thought it fit well. I still wasn't happy with how deep the hood was (very) but maybe that's how it's supposed to be?

[Stellaria]

I'm thinking that maybe if the ties are tied *behind* the neck, it'll keep the hood more open around the face.
Slavko asked me what I would do to size it up, and I think I would just measure how big I thought the gore squares should be, judging by Shamsi's picture, and then just quadruple that size (double the length and width) for the square for the hood, to keep it in proportion. Or go by how big of an opening you think you need for your face, and calculate from there.

[Fayne Erving]

The Order is gonna love this. Thanks Stell, and everyone else who's posted a handy link

[Stellaria]

We need more good headwear in this game

[Stellaria]

Hit my first dilemma. The original hood has it's seams whipstitched to the outside. So I sewed in the front gore, and whipstitched the seam down to the outside.
I now like how the inside looks WAY better, even though the stitching is uneven because I was working from the outside.
I know it's entirely up to me, and I know it's just a first try....but I can't help but think WHY did the person that sewed the original put the seams on the outside, when it doesn't look as nice?

Ah well, I shall continue. And make my next one with the seams in.

[Fayne Erving]

I'll take it!

[Kensman Ilariia]

Decorative stitching?  :/

Tangent, I am super excited by this:  http://medieval-baltic.us/sewingbask.html

Need to get my basket up to snuff.

[Tooka the Gangly Goblin]

This is the one I've been meaning to play around with before winter hits.

http://www.www.moirandalls.com/cowl.htm

I've used this pattern for both my cowl and liripipe.

[Ingvar the Ruthless]

Do you guys have a pattern for this said mantle? i dont have time to be freestyling

Make sure a folded end is at the top, this way you don't have to make an extra seam there. Measure the length of your face from top of forehead to chin, add 1 to 2 inches to be able to wiggle the hood on/off. Cut out for face, around shoulders and back of head. Make sure you make the pattern big enough to fit your head inside. If you make it too big, you can always just adjust the seam. Make it too small and you cut up a perfectly good pillowcase for no reason.

This pattern will result in a small little tail hanging off the back of the hood. If you don't want the tail, simply cut a curved line resembling the shape of the back of your head instead of the big spikey thing. I also find that a slightly curved V shape at the bottom results in a better fit around your shoulders. Also, hopefully Thrud could share some tips, I have seen a mantle with hood that she made that looked pretty good.

While I realize that it may not look entirely professional or kick-ass, it is still better than freezing your ears off in fall/winter.

[Stellaria]

Decorative stitching?  :/

Tangent, I am super excited by this:  http://medieval-baltic.us/sewingbask.html

Need to get my basket up to snuff.

Oh man, me too. We need to bug Ray about needles and snips sometime.

[Slavko]

The Skjoldehemn tunic had a similar stitching on outside style that was covered by decorative braid/trim. the hood may have been similar?

[Maker Magpie]

This thread makes me happy. Next chance I get I'm going to try to make one of those mantles/hoods from the first post. I'll share results if they're any good. Thanks!

[Kensman Ilariia]

Decorative stitching?  :/

Tangent, I am super excited by this:  http://medieval-baltic.us/sewingbask.html

Need to get my basket up to snuff.

Oh man, me too. We need to bug Ray about needles and snips sometime.

I got snips, but could always use more!  Definitely need needles and case.  Not sure what to wind my wool floss onto though...maybe just ball it?  I would hate to leave it on spindles and definitely don't want to use plastic cards.

[Rúnsær]

Hit my first dilemma. The original hood has it's seams whipstitched to the outside. So I sewed in the front gore, and whipstitched the seam down to the outside.
I now like how the inside looks WAY better, even though the stitching is uneven because I was working from the outside.
I know it's entirely up to me, and I know it's just a first try....but I can't help but think WHY did the person that sewed the original put the seams on the outside, when it doesn't look as nice?

Ah well, I shall continue. And make my next one with the seams in.

I think I know the answer to this one.  You see not all of us were trained to do it right from a young age.  In fact many of us haveing no training at all have tried to do stuff and came up with something that worked but did not look all that pretty.  The use of two different colors on the hem around the facehole says to me they just used up what was left on the needle and did not care about the looks.  I would guess this person just did not have much training and just wanted to sew something together that would work and fit.  Maybe they were bad enough that the seams would rub against their skin on most the stuff they made so they just put them outside.  If they find a few more, the seams may be a bit different.

[Sváva The SpaceWolf]

Do you guys have a pattern for this said mantle? i dont have time to be freestyling

Make sure a folded end is at the top, this way you don't have to make an extra seam there. Measure the length of your face from top of forehead to chin, add 1 to 2 inches to be able to wiggle the hood on/off. Cut out for face, around shoulders and back of head. Make sure you make the pattern big enough to fit your head inside. If you make it too big, you can always just adjust the seam. Make it too small and you cut up a perfectly good pillowcase for no reason.

This pattern will result in a small little tail hanging off the back of the hood. If you don't want the tail, simply cut a curved line resembling the shape of the back of your head instead of the big spikey thing. I also find that a slightly curved V shape at the bottom results in a better fit around your shoulders. Also, hopefully Thrud could share some tips, I have seen a mantle with hood that she made that looked pretty good.

**Svava snip**

While I realize that it may not look entirely professional or kick-ass, it is still better than freezing your ears off in fall/winter.

I actually tried making a mantle out of pillow case in a very similar way. Here's how it turned out.




And here's the main difference from this, I took the fabric that I cut out of the back and made a gore out of it. This helped it rest around the shoulders better.


Sorry for the bad photos, my arms are only so long!

[Rojji]

Do you guys have a pattern for this said mantle? i dont have time to be freestyling

Make sure a folded end is at the top, this way you don't have to make an extra seam there. Measure the length of your face from top of forehead to chin, add 1 to 2 inches to be able to wiggle the hood on/off. Cut out for face, around shoulders and back of head. Make sure you make the pattern big enough to fit your head inside. If you make it too big, you can always just adjust the seam. Make it too small and you cut up a perfectly good pillowcase for no reason.

This pattern will result in a small little tail hanging off the back of the hood. If you don't want the tail, simply cut a curved line resembling the shape of the back of your head instead of the big spikey thing. I also find that a slightly curved V shape at the bottom results in a better fit around your shoulders. Also, hopefully Thrud could share some tips, I have seen a mantle with hood that she made that looked pretty good.

**Svava snip**

While I realize that it may not look entirely professional or kick-ass, it is still better than freezing your ears off in fall/winter.

I actually tried making a mantle out of pillow case in a very similar way. Here's how it turned out.




And here's the main difference from this, I took the fabric that I cut out of the back and made a gore out of it. This helped it rest around the shoulders better.


Sorry for the bad photos, my arms are only so long!

I used his pattern at Rag not for heat retention but when used in conjunction with sunblock it kept my pasty neck white.

[Alric]

Hit my first dilemma. The original hood has it's seams whipstitched to the outside. So I sewed in the front gore, and whipstitched the seam down to the outside.
I now like how the inside looks WAY better, even though the stitching is uneven because I was working from the outside.
I know it's entirely up to me, and I know it's just a first try....but I can't help but think WHY did the person that sewed the original put the seams on the outside, when it doesn't look as nice?

Ah well, I shall continue. And make my next one with the seams in.

The hood seems pretty rough in construction. The decorative hemming around the edge is done from random, mismatched colors. I suspect that it wasn't the highest quality garment. It was a burial, so it's possible they tossed something together at the last minute to look good from 10' away (to all the funeral guests) because she needed to be buried in a head covering, but no one wanted to bury one of her nice hoods and lose it forever. Or maybe she was poor and didn't have a nice hood to be buried in.

I might be wrong, though - it could just be a different aesthetic. It's possible that they thought the visible stitches looked pretty.

[Stellaria]

I realized that it wasn't just the outside seams that didn't make sense - the entire back seam doesn't make sense, either. Why slit the middle of the hood piece, save for about an inch of the fabric, and then sew up the back? Also, the whip-felled seams are low-profile enough, even in a rough wool, to not be irritating, mainly because the seams are not in any place that would come into contact with skin.
If it were thrown together just for burial and not for use, I don't think time would have been taken to whip-stitch the edges. It looks good without the edge stitching, and would not ravel unless it were seeing wear. Plus the stitching takes quite a while.

So, my theory is: Beginner.

I'll dress my next one up a bit. I do love the fit, though! I measured from the top of my breastbone to the top of my forehead for the hood slit length. Then measured out at an angle from the breastbone to determine how big I wanted the gore squares to be. Added the two measurements, forgot to add the inch for the unslitted fabric, and cut a square that big for the hood, and two squares in the determined gore dimension. I only used about a 1/8"-3/16" seam allowance - running stitch first, then whip stitching the seam allowances down.

[Whisper Moonson]

So, my theory is: Beginner.

I was thinking something similar: "Dammit! I sewed the hem on the wrong side and whipped it and everything! Well, I'm not about to rip and resew this thing. It's freezing outside and it's time to tend to the goats. I'll deal with it later."

[Alric]

Or the 5 year old grand daughter really wanted to give something to her dead grandmother during grandma's funeral?

[Kensman Ilariia]

Or the 5 year old grand daughter really wanted to give something to her dead grandmother during grandma's funeral?

Seems legit.

Edit:  Speaking of lovely mantles/hoods, this shows up on my Facebook feed:

[Stellaria]

Flora should have that.

And I like the 5yo granddaughter theory

[Nova3]

Ummm, that looks super easy to make and lord knows I've got enough scrap wool lying around to make several!

[Siguric]

So for someone with an extra large melon, how much fabric would I need for the first tut?

[Maker Magpie]

I just made the one from the first post with some fabric I had lying around.

I used two 30cm squares and two 30x60cm rectangles, and it just barely fits my head. If I had sewn the head-opening bigger, it'd fit a bigger head with the same fabric, I bet. My head is 23.5 inches around.

I quite like the pattern -- the only problem is that my fabric is quite stiff and doesn't drape well. However, it was just a test -- I'll buy some nice material when I get a chance and make a new one.

[Stellaria]

So for someone with an extra large melon, how much fabric would I need for the first tut?

Measure from the hollow of your throat to the top of your forehead. Write that down.
Measure from the hollow of your throat and down and out at a 45 degree angle and estimate how big the side if the gore square should be. Write that down.
Add the two measurements together, add 1". Cut one square that big.
Cut two squares to the dimension of the gore measurement.

[Sváva The SpaceWolf]

I found more pretty things in my web snooping.

[Whisper Moonson]

Now that just ain't fair!

[Stellaria]

Well somebody is compensating for something....

[Sváva The SpaceWolf]

Now that just ain't fair!

You know what's even less fair, that dude dyed that silk that gold color with onion skins himself. Here's a link to his photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/roland.rich/NaturallyDyedSilkSuitMakingOf

Oh, and there's this one too:


I...I need to go sew things now.

[Varg Bloodeagle]

Yep, gonna be needing onion dyed pants and a tunic now...*deep breath*

SLAVKOOOOO!

[Nova3]

That is a fitted tunic on a man lookin real good. Magnus go make yourself one!

[Fayne Erving]

That is a lot of buttons. Assuming it's fitted that well, I don't think he puts it on over his head.

[Nova3]

That is a lot of buttons. Assuming it's fitted that well, I don't think he puts it on over his head.

Oh god no. I'm in the process of making that style of tunic, and when the fitting is just right it's incredibly difficult to take off with all the seams sewed/basted together. Buttons/lacing important!

[Fayne Erving]

Made that mistake with my first tunic too. I made it very form fitting to show off my manly curves, but it turns out this made a sort of cloth cocoon once it got all sweaty and sticky with the blood of my enemies. Coincidentally, I sort of look like a larva wiggling out of a cocoon when I'm trying to get it off

[Nova3]

Made that mistake with my first tunic too. I made it very form fitting to show off my manly curves, but it turns out this made a sort of cloth cocoon once it got all sweaty and sticky with the blood of my enemies. Coincidentally, I sort of look like a larva wiggling out of a cocoon when I'm trying to get it off

Video or it didn't happen >.>

[Fayne Erving]

Haha! I wish I had it!

[ffride wlffsdotter]

I signed up with an account just to say thank-you! And I'm glad the Skjoldehamn hood stuff is useful for someone!

[Magnus]

That is a fitted tunic on a man lookin real good. Magnus go make yourself one!

Once I get my apartment set up, I'm on it.