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Author Topic: Garb advice  (Read 1148 times)

Nåal Tyrok

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Garb advice
« on: August 05, 2012, 01:17:32 am »
How would I go about making this?

I'm looking for precise fabrics to use on each piece. Also, improvements to the clothing to make them more acceptable but still keep the general look(The folds on the mid thigh look kinda silly anyway).
And finally, how to stitch the fabric together in the manner shown.




Any help would be much appreciated.
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hivemind

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2012, 01:22:52 am »
http://www.museumreplicas.com/p-398-locksley-pants.aspx
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2012, 02:31:30 am »
I'd lose the shorts.  Then get a sleeveless surcoat or tunic over the pants that Hivemind linked to.  What really makes the outfit is the hooded cape, I'd use one of the patterns on this thread and modify it for that look/fit: http://www.dagorhir.com/forums/index.php/topic,25710.0.html

Lastly, cut pieces of fabric in the patch colors and put them on top of the base layer of clothing then stitch it on using the giant exposed stitch look in the picture (which is awesome by the way). 

Eric Belisle has a lot of really cool images with this aesthetic.

Lastly, accessorize; bracers, leather pouch, one of those cool leather bottles that Alric and Hivemind make.  The boot look could be done with gaiters...
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2012, 02:32:41 am »
Sorry, Varg posting on Hundr's account...
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2012, 02:39:39 am »
I see six pieces of garb:

Hood and mantle, cape/cloak, vest, belt, boots and pants.

In addition I see the following accessories: dagger sheath on ankle, quiver on belt, pouch under quiver, pouch on opposite side of belt, waterbag, and gloves(?).

I see the following pieces of armor: bracers with articulated wrist (the 'gloves' may be integrated?), greaves, and spaulders with completely useless bits of belt hanging off of them.

Finally, I see the following unidentifiable items: strap to nowhere peeking out from under the mantle, strap from nowhere hanging around in back, and piece of leather/cloth riveted to vest underneath quiver.

If you get the first three categories in the right colors you'll like him. If you can figure out what the stuff in the last category is for, you're a better man than I.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2012, 05:04:09 am »
Personally I'd use this linen:

http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=showarticles&menu=f&article=1&sa=1&printed=

Their heavier stuff is nice too (the TEAK color looks close to the colors in the picture):

http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=showarticles&menu=f&article=2&sa=1&printed=
http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=search&tema=sale&menu=os

For the base, I would use linen, and maybe make a wool hood and mantle/cape for winter, but generally linen is king. Definitely machine stitch the pieces first, then hand stitch the "tattered' stitching. If you have the patience to actually cut pieces out and stitch them together, more power to you, but otherwise stitching the different pieces over the top isn't a bad idea either.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2012, 05:06:58 am by Tooka the Gangly Goblin »
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2012, 07:14:06 am »
(The folds on the mid thigh look kinda silly anyway).
And finally, how to stitch the fabric together in the manner shown.

The weird mid-thigh fold isn't from the pants, but from the boots, I think. Actually, looking even closer, they might even be weird, thigh-high gaiters worn over the shoes and pants, with the top folded over. Maybe it's an attempt at drawing half-chaps? (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HalfChaps2.jpg)

Those pants look pretty exciting though - assuming that the patching that is visible are structural seams, instead of decorative, it looks a little like the trousers from Damendorf - http://www.kelticos.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4040 (I could have sworn there was a really nice to follow tutorial for making that style of pants! Sorry.  :'()
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2012, 01:08:21 pm »
Finally, I see the following unidentifiable items: strap to nowhere peeking out from under the mantle, strap from nowhere hanging around in back,

Looks like there's a single spaulder under the mantle on his left arm. The straps are the straps holding that on.
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Stellaria

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2012, 02:03:17 pm »
Wool - flannel to coat weight - for hood/mantle and cloak.
Garment leather for pants and surcoat/jerkin thingy
Bigass leather pirate boots, dressed down with added edge-lacing.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2012, 10:39:55 pm »
Wool or linen fabric, machine stitch, hand-whipping with COTTON embroidery floss or a fine wool yarn because silk will cut your linen and wool to ribbons.

Also modify the design in some way. The shirt tucked into pants design stands a significant chance of not passing. Add a tabard or long vest or switch to a long tunic. The pants look sort of like the Thorsberg pants. You might look around for a tutorial on that pattern.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2012, 11:14:15 pm »
Also modify the design in some way. The shirt tucked into pants design stands a significant chance of not passing.

Ehhh, I think it's fine, so long as it's all really well-made. Not going to get away with throwing some lines of stitching onto a T-shirt and tucking that into some Dockers, though.


Add a tabard

Do this. Adding a long tabard or surcoat to this ensemble makes it much better.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2012, 11:50:31 pm »
Also modify the design in some way. The shirt tucked into pants design stands a significant chance of not passing. Add a tabard or long vest or switch to a long tunic. The pants look sort of like the Thorsberg pants. You might look around for a tutorial on that pattern.

Disagree. If done well it can look awesome.



So yeah, what Hivemind said.  As long as there's other stuff going on to balance out the look, a tucked-in tunic or shirt or whatever could be just fine.
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Nåal Tyrok

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2012, 11:57:51 pm »
Thank you all for the metric ton of useful advice. Drawing up plans, researching patterns, and trying to requisition a sewing machine as we speak.
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Whisper Moonson

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2012, 11:56:14 pm »
Also modify the design in some way. The shirt tucked into pants design stands a significant chance of not passing. Add a tabard or long vest or switch to a long tunic. The pants look sort of like the Thorsberg pants. You might look around for a tutorial on that pattern.

Disagree. If done well it can look awesome.



So yeah, what Hivemind said.  As long as there's other stuff going on to balance out the look, a tucked-in tunic or shirt or whatever could be just fine.

That looks totally 19th century to me. A doublet and Venetians might work, or a short cotehardie with joined hosen and a codpiece, but a tucked-in shirt just screams modern. Refer back to Dudley's silhouette samples.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2012, 01:21:29 am »
That's Game of Thrones, which is firmly rooted in medieval fantasy, and that garb is absolutely legit.  You historical purists amuse the hell out of me.
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Alric

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #15 on: August 07, 2012, 03:03:34 am »
It isn't particularly medieval.

But it's very medieval fantasy.
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Tooka the Gangly Goblin

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2012, 03:10:41 am »
Honestly I'd let him onto the field over someone wearing a tabbard over a teeshirt and black sweats. I wish I could find a better picture, cause I'm curious about the pants he's wearing now. They kind of look ranger-esque.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #17 on: August 07, 2012, 07:46:02 am »
Honestly I'd let him onto the field over someone wearing a tabbard over a teeshirt and black sweats. I wish I could find a better picture, cause I'm curious about the pants he's wearing now. They kind of look ranger-esque.

It's a skirt that he's wearing.  http://capsofthrones.tumblr.com/post/20994801347
« Last Edit: August 07, 2012, 07:55:20 am by peikko »
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #18 on: August 07, 2012, 09:08:51 am »
It isn't particularly medieval.

But it's very medieval fantasy.

Ding ding, we have a winner!

Keep in mind, folks, we are NOT meant to be strictly a historically accurate game.  Fantasy is a huge element, and I'm pretty sure the costume designers who were paid a ton of money to create the outfits for Game of Thrones may have known what they were doing when they were trusted to successfully create the "look" of the medieval fantasy series.  I mean, the show is kinda a big deal, and it looks fantastic overall.  If everyone in Dagorhir looked like extras from that show, every single one of us should be ecstatic.

Honestly I'd let him onto the field over someone wearing a tabbard over a teeshirt and black sweats. I wish I could find a better picture, cause I'm curious about the pants he's wearing now. They kind of look ranger-esque.

I've been trying to figure out his garb as well, and at first I thought it was a sorta lower-half surcoat, with flaps hanging from the belt.  Upon closer inspection it seems that it ties around his waist like a wrap skirt, but it's still split four ways, giving that surcoat look.  Underneath he is still wearing trousers and his boots.  It's such a great look, I think, and it balances out the tucked-in shirt, and the sweet breastplate he wears.

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #19 on: August 07, 2012, 09:38:58 am »
If he really wanted to flesh out his outfit, he would have a couple of inches of his underarmor showing through the neck and sleeves of his tunic. That's true fantasy!
*wisenod*
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #20 on: August 07, 2012, 01:26:57 pm »
That's Game of Thrones, which is firmly rooted in medieval fantasy, and that garb is absolutely legit.  You historical purists amuse the hell out of me.

There's that whole "us vs. normal people" dichotomy again.

Joe Blow who's only exposure to clothing not from the past few decades is having seen two of the Lord of the Rings movies and three episodes of The Tudors can't tell that the garb and armor on HBO's GoT is a smorgasbord of badly-recreated and podged-together crap from 1000 BC through 1850 AD.

We, belonging to a society of people who get together to swordfight with fake weapons and do historical research and read fantasy novels and base our garb and armor off of such sources really should be able to tell, and a lot of us can. 

Sure, we could keep lowering our standard for what's "good enough" every time a new "fantasy" TV show comes out where the director told Costuming, "No, I want them in something tight, like those things the dancing girls wore in the saloons, whattayacall 'em, corests?  And make sure our male lead is in something recognizably modern-ish and Western, so the audience can tell him apart from the bad guys".  We could also try to do the best we can and not let (ignorant) popular culture decide our standards for us.

In the end, I suppose it's up to us as a society.

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #21 on: August 07, 2012, 02:10:08 pm »
Mormont is also wearing a tucked in shirt with a skirt/surcoat thing.  His silhouette would look somewhat more tunic like than just a shirt tucked into pants.  I think thats why most of us probably find that look acceptable for medievalish fantasy.  It's about context. 

I don't think everything in the show would be acceptable though.  I cringed every time Margaery Tyrell was on screen in one of her ridiculous looking Star Trek dresses.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #22 on: August 07, 2012, 02:16:38 pm »
Littlefinger looks terrible. I like the actor, but his costuming and hair is way too conniving minister from Dune or something.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #23 on: August 07, 2012, 03:05:10 pm »
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/showtracker/2012/03/creative-minds-game-of-thrones-costume-designer-michele-clapton.html

Cool interview with the GoT costume designer. I don't watch the show, but I'm thinking I should start.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #24 on: August 07, 2012, 04:15:36 pm »
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/showtracker/2012/03/creative-minds-game-of-thrones-costume-designer-michele-clapton.html

Cool interview with the GoT costume designer. I don't watch the show, but I'm thinking I should start.

Quote from: Michele Clapton
With Brienne (Gwendoline Christie), for instance, she is a woman but we want to mistake her for a man; however, no matter what you do, women have hips. We just started making the lines on the armor go away from her waist and slowly she began to look more masculine — at the same time, the armor also had to be functional.

>>obviously doesn't have any idea what real armor is supposed to look like on real people at all


Between the stuff the head of costume design said in that article about inspirations for costumes and the ludicrously gear-ridden opening sequence to the show, is there any wonder the world of HBO's GoT is confused about whether it's medieval fantasy or just loosely "historical" (aka older than the 1900s) fantasy?

I don't blame HBO for thinking its viewers are too dumb to remember which grizzled white guy is which without costumes that are so wildly different from one another that they don't even make sense in a pre-Fashion (i.e., pre-1600s technology) world, exactly, but that's definitely part of the reason for the insane costuming.

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #25 on: August 08, 2012, 06:22:57 am »
That's Game of Thrones, which is firmly rooted in medieval fantasy, and that garb is absolutely legit.  You historical purists amuse the hell out of me.
At first glance, I thought that picture WAS of a 19th century show/movie.  Perhaps it's not the best picture of his outfit, but as presented it fails the glance test.

Go ahead, call the fantasy spider monster a "historical purist."   :P
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #26 on: August 08, 2012, 09:44:30 am »
After reading that article, I realized that, that is what we are trying to do when customers for BadAss Garb contact us for custom fantasy garb. We just did some orc garb for a guy, and the thought process was that orcs start out with a certain orc garb, then as they progress they loot the bodies of the dead for better stuff, the problem being, looting the dead for clothes nets you ripped, torn, sliced, stabbed clothing of a man killed by orcs. So the orc is forced to stitch all these things together to make and repair their original garment. Orc style (if you could call it one) is a hodgepodge of mismatched fabrics sewn together, the more types of garments tends to show that this orc has been in more fights and looted more of the dead. So almost a higher status is given to the orc with the most diversified garments making up their garb. The stitching is rudimentary but functionally strong, as orcs tend not to be expert tailors, and they don't use bright colors, as they do like to fade into the shadows and surprise their victims.

Fleshing out how a garment comes in to being, and why it looks the way it does, in my opinion, is doing fantasy right. Not looking to fantasy to excuse modern clothing.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #27 on: August 08, 2012, 12:21:28 pm »
After reading that article, I realized that, that is what we are trying to do when customers for BadAss Garb contact us for custom fantasy garb. We just did some orc garb for a guy, and the thought process was that orcs start out with a certain orc garb, then as they progress they loot the bodies of the dead for better stuff, the problem being, looting the dead for clothes nets you ripped, torn, sliced, stabbed clothing of a man killed by orcs. So the orc is forced to stitch all these things together to make and repair their original garment. Orc style (if you could call it one) is a hodgepodge of mismatched fabrics sewn together, the more types of garments tends to show that this orc has been in more fights and looted more of the dead. So almost a higher status is given to the orc with the most diversified garments making up their garb. The stitching is rudimentary but functionally strong, as orcs tend not to be expert tailors, and they don't use bright colors, as they do like to fade into the shadows and surprise their victims.

I'm sorry, all I got from that was, "kill the best dressed orc and then brag like a champ."  ;D

Fleshing out how a garment comes in to being, and why it looks the way it does, in my opinion, is doing fantasy right. Not looking to fantasy to excuse modern clothing.

Quoted For Truth.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #28 on: August 08, 2012, 12:58:56 pm »
I'm sorry, all I got from that was, "kill the best dressed orc and then brag like a champ."  ;D
Then my work is done here.
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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #29 on: August 08, 2012, 02:25:38 pm »

Fleshing out how a garment comes in to being, and why it looks the way it does, in my opinion, is doing fantasy right.

I agree. I believe it helps to say "how did my persona get this? Does this buckle serve a purpose? Where has this person been? A city? An ashen wasteland? Is he rich? Crafty? Does he have sticky fingers?"

Sometimes, if you look at historical pictures of soldiers, you notice things like " he has a broad rim hat to protect him from the sun and rain instead of a visored cap. He ditched his back pack (or never had one) and wraps his blanket around himself in the field."

I like fantasy as much as the next guy...but I also like it make sense. A guard of the fountain court would probably change a lot of his garments if he was posted to Osgilith for a while!



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hivemind

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #30 on: August 08, 2012, 02:43:35 pm »
Helm fails for protrusions.
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Primarch Ser Hivemind Saligia of The Cairnhold Legion, Winterfell: A drinking unit with a fighting problem.
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Raven Ghost

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #31 on: August 08, 2012, 05:53:40 pm »
Helm fails for protrusions.

Cute
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hivemind

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Re: Garb advice
« Reply #32 on: August 08, 2012, 10:54:16 pm »
Thanks, I'll be here all week.
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Primarch Ser Hivemind Saligia of The Cairnhold Legion, Winterfell: A drinking unit with a fighting problem.
Ragnarok XXVI Arts & Sciences Competition Winner: Armor & Miscellaneous
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